As I was putting this SBS together I started to think about when I first met Ed and his Intruder, Here is a link to the first Intruder I posted back in back in 2008. http://speypages.com/speyclave/showt...intruder+marty
I have added it so you can see how easy it is to get off track when it comes to fly construction. I look at that fly/sbs and just laugh. I used all the right materials and placement was correct but I did not understand the purpose behind its construction or should I say engineering. The fly looks flat to me now.
As for my defense of the integrity of the Intruder in past post, I was not completely wrong but Ed did correct me as to what materials can be used. He explained you can use virtually any type of material to build an Intruder including marabou. He did say there is a disconnect when it comes to the use of Intruder as a category to classify different flies and added there is not much we can do about that now. He went on to say for a fly to be classified as an Intruder it must follow the basic design of stations and propping of material. He also added the part about being engineered with the explanation its more than just wrapping a bunch of material on a hook. Basically the goal in tying an Intruder is to produce a strong profile with minimal material for a better sink rate and better casting.
In this thread http://speypages.com/speyclave/showt...intruder+marty
I make the statement "Ed’s Intruder, I call it that because he was the “one” that developed the pattern”. It’s kind of true but Ed gives credit to Jerry French and Scot Howell for parts of the Intruders development. I also said anything that varies from the original in a variation. I still stand by this comment but then Eds intruder that he tied for me has some modifications. His fly, he can do that… As for the fly in this thread it sucks as well. Good thing I did not tie up a whole bunch of them.
As for the following step by step I can now say its pretty accurate and I am pretty confident this is how an Intruder should be “engineered”. Thanks for looking and good luck with this one.
Hook: After the tying session I am sold on the shank made from a hook. Needs to be up eyed hook to accommodate the tippet. My HMH
Spinner vise holds the shake perfectly. I also have found some flex tubing that I got from HMH
that works great for the rear connection.
Rear Section: Deer hair spun as a collar, ostrich herl for feelers and a turkey flat hackled as a collar.
Body: Metallic micro braid with a grizzly hackle palmered from rear to front.
Front Section: Deer hair spun as a collar, Amherst tail in a dubbing loop and an optional collar of turkey flat (this is my little addition)
Head: Two turns of chenille and a dumbbell
The first step is to spin a collar of deer hair at the rear of the shank. The better the collar/prop the better the fly will perform. Don’t overdo it, deer hair floats
Next tie in a clump of ostrich herl on the back side of the shank and a second clump on the front side of the shank.
Secure in a turkey flat and wrap as a hackle. Make sure both the tie in point for the ostrich and the hackle are compressed against the deer hair.
Secure in a length of micro braid and a grizzly hackle. Wrap the braid forward followed by the hackle. The body hackle is optional and only added when looking for a fuller silhouette.
Next spin a second collar of deer hair. This one should be just a bit fuller than the one on the rear section.
Create a dubbing loop and load it with a clump of fibers from an Amherst tail. Working the barbs of the tail feather so they are separated and waxing the loop will help in the spinning process.
Fold all the tail barbs back and wrap as a collar.
Tie in a turkey flat and wrap as a collar.
Secure in a length of chenille and take two wraps as tight to the collar of turkey as possible. Tie on a dumbbell and give it a whip. Use a soft head cement like aqua seal to bind the head. Hard cement will chafe the tippet.
Good tying and better fishing