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Hooks for Bombers

11K views 43 replies 12 participants last post by  Draggerman 
#1 ·
A question for those who tie the waking Bomber patterns: what's your preferred hook? Low-water salmon, large-gape streamer, 3xl dry fly, ...? TIA
 
#6 ·
I tie in the tail then wing, then spin. I find it neater & easier. It also avoids the wing coming apart in the future because you get a good clear base from which to secure & glue on(if desired) instead of tying up against spun hair.
Then I tie my body hackle from just before the tail. Wind it forward, then come over with my thread, securing the hackle.Tie in. Lastly, Add 2 hakles for the wing.

Same for a tube, but if you want to wake it, I leave a clear space where I can make my hole, right between the spun hair & the wing hackle.
 
#8 ·
I've never liked having to keep the wing out of my way while spinning and trimming, so I tie it in last. Just easier for me. In Jorgenson's book, he covers the entire hook shank with the calf tail and wing, then spins. Never been able to make the deer hair spin very well over that. I like the bare hook shank.
To each his own! (and your bombers are the bomb, as the kids would say)
Gary
 
#10 ·
CS/42's

Well, I'm sure that can happen, maybe with just about any hook if the fish is feisty and big enough. I've landed up to a 30 pound atlantic on a CS/42 with no problems to report, though. I've really landed quite a few fish on CS/42 bombers with no issues. Guess there's always a first time.

Last year I started using much smaller bombers tied on Mustad hooks to very good effect.
Gary
 
#12 ·
informative SBS

Marty, thanks for digging that one up; I will try tying in the wing before the last batch of hair, never done it that way before. I tie in the palmering hackle after everything is done; the thread gets lost in the deer hair, and its just easier for me not to have to worry about it during the clipping process. Interestingly, most bombers I see on/for the Miramichi have more of a "double taper", the front taper being blunter than the rear.

It sure is a gas to watch big fish come up for bombers, isn't it? I wait for just the right water in August to make a run up to New Brunswick just to fish bombers.

Bombed,
Gary
 
#28 ·
.

It sure is a gas to watch big fish come up for bombers, isn't it? I wait for just the right water in August to make a run up to New Brunswick just to fish bombers.

Bombed,
Gary
Try it in clear water! You can see every move a fish makes. Fins & gills flaring & small movements that we would otherwise miss in colored water.
Also seeing a fish come full pin from 5 or even 10 feet away straight to the fly only to stop to inspect it & turn around slowly. There is so much we don't see!!!

Or a fish follow the fly throughout its drift refusing or taking just before it drags!!

Or coming to the fly 12 times in row hitting it with its snout each time!!

Or A fish come up and hit the fly with its tail!!

Or a big belly flop on your fly!!


The tug is great, but seeing & feeling the tug is AWESOME!!
This imo is the most addictive part of our sport!!
 
#14 ·
Right on Paul! I use WWDoak hooks, and I love 'em. They're actually made by Partridge of reddich. The finish is beautiful, and they have a nice gape.



gt05254, Hitcher, those are some very nice looking bomber boxes! Gary, we use a lot of the same colors! I picked up some chartreuse hair in the bargain bin last year. Great fly at dusk!

Actually, I haven't been posting lately because I've been stocking up my bomber box :( They're the fly I love to hate to tie.
 
#15 ·
The Doak hooks are nice, but unfortunately, Jerry charges 9 bucks to ship them here and last I was in the shop, he was out of them.

Rob, last August we tore it up in Boisetown on natural brown bombers with white tail and wing that I tied on size 6 mustad 3906B's. Obviously a dinky little bomber, but the fish loved it.

I'm finishing a batch of streamers for Maine in June, then its back to salmon flies, specifically bombers.

happy bombing,
Gary
 
#17 ·
Norseman - Jerry has nice stuff, don't get me wrong, but if I'm going to pay shipping, I'll pay one of the U.S. guys 3 or 4 bucks. LOL, and I'm sitting on enough fly tying material to last 3 or 4 lifetimes, anyway. Every so often I see some shiny new stuff that I just have to have, but my "put a big order together" days are long over.

That's good advice, though, to anyone needing a batch of stuff.
Gary
 
#18 ·
Thank you Gents; much appreciated. For general daylight conditions, is there a color you tend to go with most of the time? I was actually thinking that a rusty brown body with chartreuse "butt" and white or even rust brown tail might be somewhat analogous to a large egg-laying caddis.
 
#19 ·
It's generally more of a "get the hell out of here" response from salmon, rather than a food response. That being said, I think the color is up to the fisherman. Size and silhouette are key here. If it's buoyant and I can see it, game on. For other species, your logic seems sound to me.

That being said, I'm excited to use some small natural colors this year per Gary's recommendations. I've been using caribou for some lately, and it looks very buoyant.

My favorite is all black. I use this most of the time. Not to be underestimated.
 
#25 ·
Here is the SBS as promised. Hope it is clear:


Tie in a clump of calf tail or polar bear for a tail. Trim & add glue to thread wraps. I usually tie in my wing after my tail if I were tying on a hook, but prefer Marty's technique when tying a tube.


Take 2 loose turns around your deer hair(about the diameter of a pencil) & the tube, then pull thread firmly down & toward you. The hair should spin around the tube. Take 2 turns back toward the tail (letting the thread work between the hair) & then 2 turns forward. Leave your thread in front of the spun hair. These turns will secure the hair & prevent it from spining. Continue this step until your desired lenth of body.

Some tyers like to push the clumps of spun hair tightly against eachother to make a tight body. I personally do not like this because it sinks like a stone after its been wet. I like a very loose body. Air gets trapped between the fibres which helps in its floatation. It is also easier to dry the fy with a couple of false casts.


At this point I tie in my wing. Trim & glue. Add one more clump of deer hair. Make a small hole under & before the thread for your leader.


Split your wing.Tie off.


Start by clipping the underside of the fly. I start with a straight cut parallel o the tube.Then clip the excess & form the shape you like.


This is how I like mine.


Tie in your thread. Tie in a hacklefrom the tip. I leave a bodkin in the hole I made earlier so I don't wrap over it.


Wrap hackle forward then come over with thread securing the hackle.


Tie in 2 hackles in front of the hole you made. At this point I add some glue on the base of thread & then wrap the hackles forward one at a time.Tie in the hackles after one turn in front of the wing. Tie off & head cement. Cut tube to length.


This is where you would put in your leader if you wanted to wake this fly.


When I do fish these big bugs, I tend to use a shorter & stout leader. I usually go with a bigger diameter flouro. Drennan is my favorite.
 
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