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Specy Co Plastic Pipettes help please

3K views 14 replies 6 participants last post by  speycoreels 
#1 ·
I finally got my deal tube fly deal package from The Spey Company yesterday and I am looking forward to playing with it all as I am new to tying on tubes. I was wondering if anyone could point me in the right direction as per what I am to do with the plastic pipettes they sent me. I found one thread on here about using them to add weight with cone heads, then inserting them into a tube fly. A little in the dark here any help would be great.

Thanks for all the great posts.
Learning to tie tube flies is way different then the dries I have tied for the last 15 years. Something kinda nice about working on something bigger then a size 18 hook.

Regards
 
#3 ·
Whilst researching at the end of 2004 for what flies to take to Russia (planned trip August 2005 for the first time), I came across Jurij (Yuri) Shumakov's flies:

http://www.rackelhanen.se/eng/10222b.htm

Perhaps not in that article, but in one of his many other excellent pieces, I saw that he mentioned the use of plastic laboratory tubes (he used to work in a lab) which he had access to, and he experimented with their use for tying tube flies. It was in such an article, I seem to recall that he mentioned pipette tubes, but not exactly how they were used.

These pipette tubes are those that are used for drawing up minute quantities of fluids with a thumb operated switch on a pipetteur (?correct name) such as made by Eppendorf. These small quantities are then transferred to test tubes etc for analysis.

However, after I got hold of some in 2005, I have been experimenting myself, and find that they are very useful, particularly as they are made cone shaped, and will accept a hook at that end without junction tubing. The fine end lends itself very well to the application of coneheads and 'ruffheads' (probaby should now be called ruffnecks!), as well as a small silk head on the templedog style flies.

In the preparation, I have two types of pipette tubes:

Uncut, the upper one is 52mm, the lower 32



Coneheads and tubes



Uncut pipette tubes with applied coneheads



Cut off the tips of the pipettes, so you can more easily work with the silk tying thread (the conehead in only finally applied at the end of the fly assembly



Cut the bases of the pipette tubes with the trusty Swiss knife, leaving the upper tube of 30mm, the lower 20mm. Note that each will be further slightly reduced by the necessary trimming after the conehead is applied, and the end heat flared



A selection of the prepared tubes before tying, the upper 2 with ruffnecks, the lower with coneheads.



Mike
 
#9 ·
I'll try to illustrate how one may utilise each & every bit of these long pipette tubes in fly tying & associated things

Mike
 
#7 ·
An addendum to this theme would be that the conical nature of the pipette tubes allow the neat fitting of a wide range of coneheads onto the tube, and the discs as well.

This may be a more efficient and more economical way to prepare plastic tube flies, as the pipette tubes can be used on their own, and with the coneheads, or the front ruffhead discs, compared to the Guideline F.I.T.S system as devised by Mikael Frodin.

Although not having the range of colours that the Frodin system has, there is no need to push tube into larger tube to get the stepped effect.

Mike
 
#8 ·
I have, just today, received the Speyco offer package of the tubes, including these long tapered pipette tubes.

The previous pipettes I had been using are all shorter, and work for a variety of tube flies, their main versatility being for the addition of cones, coneheads, etc.

I will be trying out some new ties with these super tubes from Speyco, and will post the results .. ;)

Mike
 
#10 ·
Basics:

start by measuring the tubes you have:

Speyco pipette:

92mm long:




with outer diameters as measured left to right:

4.32mm, 3.64mm, 3.13mm & then 2.63mm at the last mark, which is where the gradual taper increases in inclination towards the very fine tip.


With these measurements, you can then ascertain what diameter tube you want to tie on, which section to use, and, if necessary, how you will hold that section in your vice.

The very fine tip taper, as shown previously, is ideal for the placement of your coneheads or other cones, discs etc in finishing your tube fly creation ;)

The very 'fat' end (or flange) can be utilised in your tube, as it can be used to act as a receptor for your hook at the rear of the tube, thus not requiring 'junction' tubing.

Mike
 
#11 · (Edited by Moderator)
Wow Speyducer very cool. Here is the size I sent out used with the weights. Here is the link if anyone would like to try it out. and Ya SpeyDucer,,these tubes are thick and nice and long trimmed up. Good for intruders, saltwater flies, pike, and musky sized flies. Also can be easy trimmed short as well.
TUBE FLY STORE




The tail plastic is very fat and burns nice.


Here is the head melted in I also add Glue.


I add a small piece of the flex tubing before I make my loop knot with the hook. This will slide into the ID of the tube


Here is the finial rig the hook just on a loop and able to turn and hook fish .

Also I wanted to add a few photos of me installing the Flex liner that comes with the kit.. Here are the directions for stalling it on the straight the 1/8" plastic tubing. Adding this flex stuff make the flies really strong, and the finial rig also is very nice. This also can be installed with finished flies if you use a pin mandrel for tying or have stock that you would like to beef up.


I cut the 5 Feet in half. Put one end in a vice and pull lightly with a BIT of heat small bit. This will make one one small enough to slide into the 1/8 tubing.



Trim off very end that was in vice



Cut a pile of 1/8" tubing with a razor knife to the length you would like.. Flip the 2 1/2' of flex tubing around in the vice put 1/8 tubing on and pull lightly and push it to the end by the vice. It is now in with a compression fit, very tight glue add if you like.. There is about enough room on the I.D. for 12# line. I Do a few at a time and trim out a pile so I don't waist.


Here is a trimmed up one.



Here is the rig stalled, this Flex Tube will grab a knot well is very tuff and flexible. The hook also is laying loose, and will pull away during the hook up keeping your fly safe.
 
#15 · (Edited by Moderator)
Here are a few other samples. I will have to dig up more.

This one wakes like a mother,it really acts like a hitched fly.


Cant miss the hole either ;-)

Heres it rigged up,, Not on this one but I have also pushed a hot pin through the head on a few flies to make a true riffle tube works great cant find the flies? :-(


Here is another way. And Ya this a finishing washer colored with powder coat. This one moves water and puffs out very big! POUR MANS TURBO

Rick sent this one,, Daves bad hair day :)
 
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