Bulkley Mouse SBS - Spey Pages
 
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-08-2011, 06:21 PM Thread Starter
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Bulkley Mouse SBS

Note: The recipe I used was from Dick Stewart's and Farrow Allen's book, "Flies for Steelhead," and mentions that the tail should be tied in short, not extending beyond the hook barb.

Hook: Daichii 2421 size 4
Thread: 6/0 black
Tail: Natural Deer, Moose, or Elk body hair
Body: Butt ends of the hair used for the bound to the hook with criss cross wraps of thread
Wing: Natural Deer, Moose, or Elk body hair
Head: Flared hair from the wing clipped to form a head

Step 1: I like to attach the thread to the hook right behind the return wire. Wrap the thread back to a point on the hook shank directly above the point of the hook and return the thread to the rear of the return wire.


Step 2: Select your preferred hair, clip it off the hide as close to the hide as you can, and while firmly pinching the tips, use a small pet comb to remove all of the underfur. Gauge the length of the tail to go just beyond the end of the bend of the hook and tie it on the shank just behind the return wire. Try to get the hair to cover all sides of the hook shank. The cool part.....compress the hair to the shank with your fingers and make evenly spaced wraps of thread and stop at the hook point.


Step3: Make two extra turns at the base of the tail and spiral the thread wraps forward criss crossing the previous wraps. This will give the fly a segmented look. It's up to you if you want to coat the body and thread wraps with a flexible adhesive.


Step 4: Trim off the butt ends at the return wire or do so slightly past if you don't want to leave as much room in front of the head like I did. It's for a riffle hitch dad........not with that much room son. Darn. minus 1 attaboy.


Step 5: Select matching hair, and as in Step 2 clip it off the hide as close to the hide as you can, and while firmly pinching the tips, use a small pet comb to remove all of the underfur. Measure the wing so it extends to the rear of the hook and clip the butt ends while in your fingers so they are shorter than the wing tips when flared. When you slide scissors over the tips after they are tied in, the butt ends will stand up and make trimming them to shape much easier. Tie the hair on top of the hook shank and let it roll over to the far side and slightly under the hook shank.

Last edited by FGS III; 02-08-2011 at 06:42 PM.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-08-2011, 06:36 PM Thread Starter
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Step 6: Repeat step 5, but tie the material in on the bottom of the hook shank where the previous material thins out, and let it roll and flare back to the top of the hook shank. Make another two firm wraps to bind the material tighter to the shank.


Step 7: I should have tied in another small clump to take up some shank but oh well. Begin to trim the but ends of the wings and start to get them to a round shape. Not like a round ball, but like a round cylindar.


Step 8: Start forming the head. I chose to trim some of the hair on the bottom of the hook shank to help expose the body a tad more, but the hair on the bottom can remain intact if you like.


Shot of the bottom of the fly.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-08-2011, 08:45 PM
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Very nice!! I guess this one would work fine for our southern brownies as well
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-08-2011, 10:28 PM
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Thanks for the great SBS, I'm going to use it to tie some of those up for sure. I want to try for some summer runs on the surface in the Big Manistee this summer
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-08-2011, 10:50 PM
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The originator of the fly I believe is Andre Laporte. A long time guide on the Bulkley. I fished with Andre a couple of times last fall.

If you google his name his website will come up and he has pictures of his fly. I think he ties in some flashabou in the tail as well. Natural and black deer hair versions as well.

Next fall, we're again booked with Andre, and this time I'm determined to stick it out a bit more and fish some dries for the surface oriented fish.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-09-2011, 04:22 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you wrx canoe!! That's awesome you will be fishing with him next fall.

Glad you guys liked it. I had taken the pictures a while ago and finally got around to writing it up.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-09-2011, 04:36 PM
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When you get up there get him to tell you about the day that he wasn't feeling well and was, gassy. I don't think I have laughed that hard I some time.

Great guy to fish with lots and lots of experience with the dry and on that system.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-09-2011, 04:45 PM
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Looks good Frank!

You will find that wealth is measured in many ways--enjoying the sunrise on the stream or woods or mountains and the sunsets ranks right up there with a large bank account.

http://jakevillwock.blogspot.com/
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-09-2011, 05:18 PM Thread Starter
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Here is the right up in the book I mentioned:

The Bulkley River is a tributary of British Columbia's Skeena River, and is ideal water for skating a dry fly in either slick or broken water. The Bulkely Mouse was developed by a British Columbia guide, Collin Shadrech, during the late 1970's and early 1980's. It is considered the most effective type of dry fly pattern for that river. When dressed with an underwing of pearlescent flashabou it is known as a Disco Mouse.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-09-2011, 06:42 PM
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Bulkley mouse, history,tying & fishing

Having worked with Collin and Andre on the Bulkley in the late '80's, I can tell you for sure that the true story can be found on Andre's website. ( Thanks WRX for mentioning that ).

The fly, as perfected by Andre after tying many thousands, is tied with one clump of deer hair on top of the hook shank, which is locked in place by pulling back the wing butts and wrapping the head. The wing is cut to length before tying it in, and all remains on top of the hook shank.To do this well, strong thread is required; Andre at one time experimented with kevlar thread. I believe that Unithread 3/0 is probably the best choice available now.

The big secret of this fly, as Andre ties it, is selecting where on the cured mule deer hide the hair is taken; getting the correct texture is the key. I believe that hair off a tanned hide is too soft to get it right. Andre keeps this information to himself.... trade secrets I suppose.

To fish the fly,tie it on with a double turle knot to give low angle of pull and get tension on the fly immediately so it has no chance to sink. When fished this way, no dry fly dressing is required, and a riffle hitch is not needed except in quite broken water.

Anyway, that's my two cents worth. Thanks for bringing it up, FGS III.

Tight lines, Chris
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-09-2011, 07:25 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrslide View Post
Having worked with Collin and Andre on the Bulkley in the late '80's, I can tell you for sure that the true story can be found on Andre's website. ( Thanks WRX for mentioning that ).

The fly, as perfected by Andre after tying many thousands, is tied with one clump of deer hair on top of the hook shank, which is locked in place by pulling back the wing butts and wrapping the head. The wing is cut to length before tying it in, and all remains on top of the hook shank.To do this well, strong thread is required; Andre at one time experimented with kevlar thread. I believe that Unithread 3/0 is probably the best choice available now.

The big secret of this fly, as Andre ties it, is selecting where on the cured mule deer hide the hair is taken; getting the correct texture is the key. I believe that hair off a tanned hide is too soft to get it right. Andre keeps this information to himself.... trade secrets I suppose.

To fish the fly,tie it on with a double turle knot to give low angle of pull and get tension on the fly immediately so it has no chance to sink. When fished this way, no dry fly dressing is required, and a riffle hitch is not needed except in quite broken water.

Anyway, that's my two cents worth. Thanks for bringing it up, FGS III.

Tight lines, Chris
That is awesome info Chris.....thank you for the history (wrx canoe too) and some of the "behind the scene" technique. That's what this site is about!!
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