Spey with dry flies - Spey Pages
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-09-2013, 07:45 PM Thread Starter
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Spey with dry flies

Hello everyone,

I wanna try spey with dry flies, what kind of set up should I use? I understand that the spey cast is mostly for sinking flies, so cast with sink tips. However for dry flies, sink tips wouldn't make too much sense I guess. So I am wondering what kind of set up I should use, such as get rid of sink tips and connect the leader with shooting line directly?

Thanks!
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-09-2013, 10:10 PM
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A full-floating spey-line would be ideal. Airflo Delta for example. Add a monofilament leader at the end to cast surface flies.

Just to clarify: Spey-casting is not just sink-tips. You may be thinking of compact shooting heads (skagit-heads) intended primarily for casting weighted and bulky flies using sink tips to gain and maintain depth. That is only one form of spey-casting. If that is what you have now, you can purchase a floating tip for it and add a leader to the end of that.
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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-10-2013, 12:03 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks fishOn4evr!

Yes, currently I only have a skagit head setup, so I think floating tip would be easier for me at this moment. Anyway I am pretty new to the spey world, and just learned how to do snap T, haha, but I have been fly fishing for a few years so I want to try everything I can with spey too. Cheers!
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-10-2013, 02:19 AM
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I always do, with regular single hand rod. With spey rod too.

I often use combination of spey and overhead cast with dry fly. One for changing direction and second for finally hitting the target, or occasional air drying

Check "Scandinavian Spey Cast" film by Henrik Mortensen. He often employs that double cast technique for atlantic salmon

Line choice depends from the application. Delta is OK for small to medium size flies. Or any kind of scandi-type shooting head. For big, wind-resistant flies (e.g. salmon bombers) there is a special line called Airflo Rage. It is kind of "skagit for surface fishing".
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-10-2013, 09:58 AM
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I just put a floating tip section from my old Windcutter Versitip heads on the end of my Skagit line, loop to loop.
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-10-2013, 03:24 PM
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e normal dry line, i use the afs or dtx , go olso perfect with scandinavian line, with dry tip
speycast or overhead, for overhead i use sometime e wide open loop,special with hairy
flies/stoneflies/sedge.
its gread wen the fish take the fly
working
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-11-2013, 03:07 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys for sharing your knowledge! Today I bought a floating tip, Rio mow tips medium 10 ft, and tried it out. But... I am not sure which part was wrong, I felt awkward casting it.

I have an 11ft switch rod, 500 grain ratings used with Skagit switch shooting head of 540 grains. It felt great when casting with 10ft T11 or 7ft T14 sink tips, landed fish on both setups without any problems. But I was not able to make any good cast with mow tip I bought today, can't cast far, hard to land the fly where I wanted, nor adjust how it rolls... Overall, it didn't work very well for me. I don't know which part was wrong, could you guys shed some lights on it?
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-11-2013, 03:16 AM
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The floating tip used with a Skagit head requires some adjustment in set-up & casting compared to your previous sinking tips.

If you are only using the 'snap' casts (C, T, Z), then just SLOW DOWN between the 'snap' and the forward cast, so it gives the floating tip more time to "grip" the water. Also, not so much power is required in the forward cast with the same length of floating tip as is needed for a sink tip (as there is less 'grip' on water-borne casts for the floating section).

You could also go with a longer floating tip - like 15' instead of 10', AND a longer leader (both additions/adjustments leading to better 'grip' for the water-borne casts).

The other alternative is to use the 'touch & go'/'skip & go' casts (single Spey), but that a whole new learning experience

hth


Mike

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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-11-2013, 03:37 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah, Mike, I am thinking getting a longer floating tip, as my friend was using 15' floating tip, and comparing with mine, it casts much better. Also slowing down on the forward cast does help a bit, I actually tried today and felt a little better, but I believe I need more practice
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-11-2013, 02:40 PM
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other tip for dry , i make now with deer hair, seems the water is low in BC west no rain in 4 weeks i see on wether forcast, other story, i hope can fishing.
over good 2 weeks i,m there.
meaby someone know about the condisions in Terrace area.

thank you
DC
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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-12-2013, 06:11 AM
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Just wondering, can I make a floating extension on my Skagit outfit from some old floating lines?
I have the same combo as SpeyRivers, but so far I only used it with sinktips.
But it is easier and quicker to change just a tip when you are in the river.
I also used the sinking part of my old Teeny 400 to make 3 different sink tips, so why not a floating tip from an old floating line.

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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-12-2013, 01:14 PM
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you betcha

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brambo View Post
Just wondering, can I make a floating extension on my Skagit outfit from some old floating lines?
I have the same combo as SpeyRivers, but so far I only used it with sinktips.
But it is easier and quicker to change just a tip when you are in the river.
I also used the sinking part of my old Teeny 400 to make 3 different sink tips, so why not a floating tip from an old floating line.
I have done exactly that and out of three tips created that way, one is stellar for my 7 wt, the other best with a 5 wt. the third is too fine period. Generally, Skagit tips are 15 feet long and the forward taper on most WF single handed rods are longer. The issue is getting the butt of the tip section to have a similar flex as the end of your Skagit head. Too soft and it won't roll over. Too heavy (hard to do. really) and it would hinge badly. Try to cut the tip section such that the butt is pretty near to the diameter of the Skagit end before the loop. A little smaller is OK, but a lot smaller is not. Then the end is 15 feet from there and may not be as skinny as you'd prefer, but it will work. Frankly, with the shops charging like $25 for a tip and with a pile of old fly lines around, I doubt I will ever again buy a floating tip.
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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-13-2013, 07:17 AM
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That's an answer I like!
I will cut some old floating lines as described and practise a little with it. In 3 weeks I go for my annual Steelhead Pilgrimage and it looks like all rivers are pretty low. Maybe I can find some nice holes with some steel that want to rise

My best memories are not too old!!
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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-01-2013, 11:40 AM
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I cut an old WF8F into pieces and made a 10 and a 12 foot tip.
I tried them both and they work out very well.
The 12 ft tip casts very good!

My best memories are not too old!!
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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-01-2013, 03:00 PM
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SpeyRivers,
As Speyducer suggested, with a floating tip you do not get near the stick you do with a sink tip so it is very easy to pull your anchor and once that happens everything goes to hell quickly. Really let up on the power. Try to keep hand and arm motions to a minimum with any Skagit cast - both with sink tips and floating tips. Try to keep your elbows tight to your side and just use small hand arm motions right in front of you - this will help reduce blowing anchors. It is amazing how slow you can go and still get a good cast

Hope you can access this link of Mike McCune casting - see how little hand/arm motion is needed!

http://s15.photobucket.com/user/Rick...tml?sort=3&o=4
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