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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-10-2013, 12:00 AM Thread Starter
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Can I use spey casting techniques with......

my regular fly casting equipment? I ask because I fish lakes often with larger streamers. Sometimes on a sinking tip, and often on a floating line. Perhaps there is another casting technique, but the one I'm using is frustrating because it take A LOT to get the tip, and or, streamer out of the deep in order to make the next cast. It appears to me, that many of the spey techniques are to get the line, leader, and fly, closer to, if not on the surface, greatly facilitating the next cast. I'm not looking to necessarily drastically increasing casting distance, but for now, I have to totally start from scratch on each cast retrieving nearly all the line, just so I can get the tip up or the streamer near the surface.

I'm open to all advice and suggestions on solving this problem.

Thanks in advance!!!

Ed
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-10-2013, 01:50 AM
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Hi Ed,

Before I try to suggest any techniques for your fishing I will ask, how deep are you fishing? Thia answer will matter regarding whether or not my approach will be useful to you.

Ard

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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-10-2013, 02:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Mt-Ed View Post
my regular fly casting equipment? I ask because I fish lakes often with larger streamers. Sometimes on a sinking tip, and often on a floating line. Perhaps there is another casting technique, but the one I'm using is frustrating because it take A LOT to get the tip, and or, streamer out of the deep in order to make the next cast.
You can use spey-casting techniques with any fly equipment, single- or double- handed of any weight class.

That does not absolve you of obeying the laws of physics.

If you have a lead-weighted 6" bunny streamer sunk 8' deep, it is going to take some effort to bring that to the surface. If you go straight into a spey cast without bringing that rig up, it is going nowhere. Assuming you don't break your rod.

With a long two-handed rod, it is certainly easier to do a slowish lift or circle to, with relatively low effort, to bring the a longer tip/fly up from further down. Conversely, you could expend more effort roll-casting up to the surface.

The difference is more about wise application of effort, and the ability to lift more line that longer rods provide, than spey-casting. You could as well lift the tip up and then go into a two-handed overhead cast.

That said, some spey casts do lend themselves to bringing up sunk line as a natural part of the cast. But with a spey cast, you are also constrained by whether your line has enough mass to turn over the fly once it is out of the water.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-10-2013, 09:07 PM Thread Starter
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Hi Ed,

Before I try to suggest any techniques for your fishing I will ask, how deep are you fishing? Thia answer will matter regarding whether or not my approach will be useful to you.

Ard
I've been using streamers of differing matls. Some marabou, some zonker strips, some deer hair, etc. I've been using a 9' leader on a floating line, or a 3' leader on a 10' sinking tip. I've been working a sunken island that tops out at 2' depth that drops off in a variety of depths.....eventually too deep for anything but jigs. I've been working out of my canoe (sitting position). I typically have to strip virtually all the line in and then start false casting until the desired distance is achieved. I was wondering if something like a snap T could be used to get the line/streamer back up to the surface and then roll or spey cast from there. I'd also like to determine a cast that I don't have to strip such a large pile of line, which inevitably tangles with the next cast!! Hope this is enough info. Oh, if you know of other regular fly casting techniques that will solve these problems, I'm all in for those as well.....I'll try anything....
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-11-2013, 01:31 PM
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'Spey cast' with my 10' Sage XP all the time. Rather doubt the rod has seen much in the way of 'regular casting' in ages. For fishing short a total joy.




Fred Evans - White City, Oregon
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-11-2013, 02:46 PM
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Spey would be tough sitting in a canoe.

When I'm fishing streamers out of a canoe with a sinking or sink tip, I typically roll cast the line to the surface (which may take two or three roll casts to bring a full sinker up), then immediately make a water loaded back cast, then forward and go.

I also much prefer standing while fishing out of a canoe, which is NOT recommended in hypothermic cold water, or without a life jacket unless you'e an Olympic caliber swimmer (which I am not). A sea anchor of some sort is also a good idea, as the slightest breeze could put an empty canoe out of reach by the time you came to the surface after a spill.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-12-2013, 02:11 AM
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Spey would be tough sitting in a canoe.
I would pay good money to see speycasting done out of a canoe.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-12-2013, 07:03 PM
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I would pay good money to see speycasting done out of a canoe.
I've done it a fair amount, though IMO it's not the most efficient or comfortable way to fish. But there will be no charge, since my casting is certainly not worth your good money to see!
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-12-2013, 07:18 PM
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single hand spey

Ed,
Here's a link to some great videos by Jeff Putnam. Since he's not a spey
pages sponsor, you'll have to add a ".htm" for the link to work.
Also Simon Gawesworth has a book on the subject.
Best,
lsteinb

http://jpflyfishing.tv/index
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-12-2013, 08:08 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks so much for all of your valuable, experienced advice. That is exactly what I was looking for.....not some smoke up my pant leg!!!!
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-19-2013, 12:47 AM
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When fishing lakes with sinking lines I don't know why you would want to use Spey Casts. I fish a lot of lakes throughout the Summer and Fall and catch many fish right up next to the boat, fishing the fly completely out. The only time I use spey cast on lakes is when I'm targeting fish and need to get back over them quickly or using dry lines. In rare occasions I have done Spey casts with a sinking line, but most of the casts will be touch and go like the Single and Snake and they usually require making a roll cast first to get the line on top of the water. There may be some conditions I'm not aware of on your waters where for some reason you don't want to strip the fly all the way in.
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-19-2013, 03:43 AM
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" - It appears to me, that many of the spey techniques are to get the line, leader, and fly, closer to, if not on the surface, greatly facilitating the next cast. - "

Ed
Hi Ed,

The spey cast is not meant to help with this. It is simply a technique for doing two things; making long casts with minimal room for a back cast, and for putting a change in direction into the cast. The latter is where the single-spey, double-spey, and all the other casts come into play. When you are spey casting in streams it's the current at the dangle, along with stripping, that brings your line to the surface. In still water, obviously, you don't get the added benefit of lift from the current.

What I get from your post is that you expect to cast and sink your line as you describe, then simply go into the next cast, and that isn't going to happen. There isn't a cast that will do that for you for every foot of line, beyond the head, that you shoot into the cast will have to be retrieved. And for every foot of the head that you are forced to strip into the rod you will have to get back out, as you mentioned, for the next cast.

The only thing i can come up with, short of using your watercraft to pull the line to the surface, is a full floating line and long leader. It's a compromise between depth and ease of casting. I don't fish lakes in this manner nearly enough to offer much more to than that. .

Vic.
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-19-2013, 11:20 AM
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I often us a full floating line with a streamer on a long tapered leader. As long as I keep the length of the leader no longer than the length of my rod I seem to be able to get everything to the surface with normal procedure to make the next cast even on slow or still water.
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-10-2013, 04:53 PM
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10' Loomis GLX Streamdance 5wt, 9'6" Loop Green Line 7wt, Vision 10' Nite 7wt......magic rods for Spey casts here in Tassie on our smaller trout streams and in the lakes........love the method.....wish i had known about it 30 years ago.....
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