I fish the brule.
While a tapered leader is nice for turnover and anchor,everything needs to happen more compactly, and quicker in tight areas with spooky fish that don't have a lot of patience for you to set everything up way ahead of them. So I just use a leader with hardly any taper.......... I dont seem to have a problem with line piling up.
In fact 90% of the time it unfurls/unpiles as everythig splashes down and it all falls downward into place. i think thats a desirable thing when you want everything to punch down vertically, imo.
So I use an agressively tapered leader of 1 ft of 30, 1 ft of 20, and then like 4 feet of 10 lb floro.then, I use a small centerpin swivel (30 lb.) by raven. I like this option, but everyone is different. Then my tippet. All of my leader material is maxima florocarbon.
I take brown and black magic markers and color up the first 10 ft or so of my flyline.
I slide my indicator along this middle section of 10 lb.. I use hand turned cork indicators that are seldom more than 1.5 inches long at the biggest for the biggest water. for the brule, its about .75 inches long.
. For its size, cork is the most bouyant material And I like indicators to be small, dark, and innocuous. I paint them brown, green, and grey.
This isnt the place to begin a big dialouge on indy fishing, but nobody demands you be a 100% spey purist on here. I sure dont. Sometimes you jsut gotta bend that rod;with some fish on the other end...and the brule can be a tough little crick no doubt. and using a fly to trick a wild fish is still a cool way to do it..
So you can and should explore presenting the fly in a centerpin-like configuration,,to present this way using a fat line, being fed through the guides smoothly, and letting the fly offering come down first. It works. and it works on the brule and any other river steelhead swim. but you only have a couple days left to play on the Brule, so hurry.
What I lack in skill --- I make up for with enthusiasm.