Spey Pages banner

6 weight switch for steelhead?

25K views 56 replies 38 participants last post by  I Fall In A Lot 
#1 ·
Does anyone use a 6 weight switch rod for steelhead? Is it enough rod? Looking at a 11 foot 4 inch 6 weight switch rod. I will be fishing east great lake tribs. Thanks
 
#41 ·
I've stayed quiet so far, I use switch rods and a variety of double handers for Atlantics here in the UK.
By and large you are looking at the problem the wrong way round, justifying it towards the fish you'll be catching.Now unless you are trying to achieve the ridiculously unpractical with the rod, you ideally should be looking to match the rod to the conditions and the methods you may well be expecting to use.
I have the Airflo NanTec 6 weight switch, I use an Airflo 7 weight 40+ line on it and its my go to outfit for low water when using small (tiny!) flees and long tapered leaders from a full floating line.I've landed Atlantics on it to just short of 20lb(several in the high teens!.)It copes surprisingly well and I don't have to kill fish to land them.I fish the outfit when its hard to get an offer on anything heavier outfit wise, that's its intended purpose and it works remarkably well.Give it chance and it will reward you admirable.
Now!,I wouldn't use the outfit in heavier bigger water, where I might need to use bigger weighted tubes or proper sinking gubbins(heads, tips, full lines etc etc.), or indeed where bigger fish may well be expected, I'd reach for my 8 weight Sage One switch in those circumstances, or one of my smaller double handers.
Matching your outfit to the circumstances and conditions you face is the way to go.
There will be many who can argue a case for fishing heavier, but their own fishing circumstances may well favour such an approach, there may well be some who have already embraced fishing lighter when situations favour such an approach.
I think its a far wiser approach to keep your options open to suit your own fishings, a fish snuck out on a light line outfit when every one else go's blank is worth its weight in Gold, but so is a fish taken against the grain when the waters high cold n coloured and you've to dig deep and persevere ploughing the bottom!.
Horses for courses folks, but I'll sign off by saying, one shouldn't fish light for the sake of it and just possible one mans light is another weight lifting work out!
By and large its eminently doable, but a little thought before the initial application, go's a long way!.
Yorkie.
 
#44 ·
It would help to know the river(s) you plan to fish in BC and when you plan to fish before suggesting an appropriate rod.

For example if you are going to fish the Skeena I would not suggest a short #6 rod.
If you get a rainy windy higher water period your short rod will be outgunned.

Send in more info.
 
#47 ·
Fourth this setup! Since two other did mention the 6119. The TCX is a nice one for sure.

Here is a trick to think about to though. What kind of water? Will a t-8 suffice for depth? Or t-11 is more what you will need. The action of the rods as you look as different manufactures. For me personally if it were one rod for summer and winter fish the TCX 7119 hands down.

I have caught enough steel to see what happens when you play a fish two long. Have seen people play fish 10min or longer! No bueno! I bring in my fish in 1-5min tops! Fact (with scientific studies) that fish that are played less survive at a higher rate. I mean this is even common sense. If you only doing summer fish the TCX 6119 is a good rod.

Then again I am a fast action rod type of guy, and it’s why I’m posting about the TCX. Heck try a method 6119! :wink2:

It’s why I run sage rods. Own 15 two handed rods that I last counted and could remember; still not enough though! Hahaha!
 
  • Like
Reactions: DarthWader
#48 ·
for easy to find 6wt switch rods in UK have a look at the Orvis clearwater .
I used mine recently on the Gledfeild beat of the Carron by Bonar bridge.
only fish of the week a 3lb ish grilse landed in well under 5 minutes.
I would happily fish for salmon in the mid teens when I want to fish wee flys.

Sent from my SM-J250F using Tapatalk
 
#51 ·
Putting the wood to a fish is a good rule but it must be done with some finesse too. Not letting a fish rest is basic. Always be nagging him off his line with rod pressure to the side while he is resting will wear him down faster. Back off while he is crazy running or jumping as he's doing the work on his own and if you are applying pressure then it is just asking for bad things to happen with hooks, leaders, or rods. But as soon as he slows or wants to settle down apply the pressure again and make him work. A robust 6 wt is good enough for most GL steelhead work. Those big devils on the left cast though...
 
#53 ·
Broke in my IMX Pro 61111 yesterday on this dime bright, angry Lake Erie hen. Felt like I had plenty of rod power during this fight, it was over in about 2-2.5 minutes. I had missed a couple grabs, had one on for about 10 seconds, another for close to a minute. So, when I felt this one I set the hook like KVD towards the downstream bank.
373058
 
  • Like
Reactions: borealis
#54 ·
Another aspect to glass rods besides their distinct advantage in durability is that it is harder to rip hooks out with them. Graphite gets to its flex limit earlier in a fight and that's typically when something -- hook, leader, rod -- 'gives' as you and/or the fish push things beyond beyond the max stress point. Fiberglass is still flexing then and making the fish work w/o reaching critical stress on the system.

The problem of losing fish in mid-fight -- covered in another thread here -- IMO might well be reduced by the use of glass rods and consistent pressure.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top