Streamer Fishing for Trout on Spey - Spey Pages
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-29-2009, 09:32 PM Thread Starter
Carmichael Clan
 
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Streamer Fishing for Trout on Spey

Anything you guys would suggust. I have a CPX Redington Switch rod set up with Rio Skagit and t 14 on the end. This is pretty much my steelhead rig for Great Lakes spey fishing.

Should I be stripping in the line like I would my normal streamer rods or just swing the big uglies? Seemed a little strange when I was stripping in that fat bellied line.

Any suggestions are welcomed.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-29-2009, 11:30 PM
 
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My experience leads me to say that eventually you should try it all, although most of my strikes come on the strip after I've swung the fly, and most of those are within two or three pulls on the line, taking in about a foot of line in one-second pulses.

There are times when things are so slow on the swing, that I'll try varying when I start stripping, ranging from directly cross-current, then progressively farther downstream. I also try varying the speed of my retrieve, sometimes almost letting out line with each pull to the point that the fly isn't gaining ground; other times, I yank the fly 18" to 24" inches in rapid succession. When I fish like this, though, it's mostly because the conditions aren't ideal for streamers.\

One thing you might want to play around with is the weight on the fly. Some guys I know fish sink tips with heavy weighted flies and slay the trout, and some guys I know say that you ruin the action of a fly by fishing the combination of a weighted fly and a sink tip. Of course, if you're fishing a deep pool where the water is moving quickly, you might not reach the fish unless you have some weight on the fly. Again, something to play around with.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-30-2009, 10:43 AM
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Gettin' to the tug

Sorry if this is stuff you already know, but taken together it answers your question.
Basically, water temperature is the key, but the type of water and food are also critical:

1. The colder the water, the slower fish are to respond and generally the less energy they'll expend to chase. Also, the bait is more lethargic too. So swinging is better in cold water. As the water warms and baitfish become more active, stripping better represents what's real. Watch small fish activity in the shallows to guide you, and experiment.
2. In water that holds baitfish and other swimming food, your presentation should match the activity. In waters with more structure and smaller bug populations to support baitfish populations, I see predators often orient to the structure and chase in ambush. These fish respond best to a stripped fly in moderate water temps. In areas that support more baitfish it's sometimes good to swing a deeper baitfish for those fish that are holding in tailouts and flats and see an easy meal.
3. Water conditions are a factor too. With the big rain and high, off-color water, I go back to the swing with big ugly ESLs (flies with big shoulders and silhouette). When the water clears and conditions are more moderate, let what you see in the water guide you. As the water goes through the 40s the parr and baitfish get more active...so it pays to start whipping baitfish patterns.
4. If you haven't fished soft hackles, it's a good way to add to your swinging experience. If you have, mix in some smaller baitfish patterns and drop them near structure. The swing will produce too, and sometimes the browns like minnows over bugs.
5. The Skagit line with T-14 is a pretty specialized swinging tool, one I put away around the end of April because of the increasing water temps. With warmer water and more active fish, you don't need to leave your fly on the drag and will actually get more fish with those strips in to recast. That's a hint that it's time to move the fly more. With your rod, you might try a popular PM streamer stripping tool (one you may have)--a T-300 chopped to about 18'. It will only lightly tip-load your rod, but will be very easy to cast with a water load. It's really a two-handed overhead cast, but once you get the technique it's less tiring that whipping a one-hander all day with the same line.
6. Although it doesn't get much mention here since it's more of a warmer water trick, with a long sink-tip like the Teeny or it's clones you can add action to flies (without losing much depth) in a sort of swing/twitch blend that our early season trout sometimes can't leave alone.

Have fun!
Carl
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-30-2009, 02:07 PM
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I agree with what was already said. I often find myself gravitating towards runs that are better suited to the swing because i want to swing! But each of the above posts are correct in my expereince. Get out there and have fun!

The only thing I have found is that with the advancements in lines especialyl skagit heads allow you to use lighter and lighter rods but still throw heavy tips... I have been using a 6wt Deer Creek switch for this application, but am thinking I want to drop down to the 5 or even 4wt.... : )
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-15-2009, 09:21 AM
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Hope this helps

I am pretty new to spey casting, but i have been chuck and ducking for quite some time and i have found that you have to experiment each day, run, temp, clarity ect. The one thing that i think is great, but may be frownd upond by hardcore spey casters is that with the length of these rods you can strip your line back at different parts of the swing. For instance with a standard 9ft rod you really cann't mend/control your line as well, so the majority of the time when i am stripping a streamer it is during the dangel portion of the swing and am only getting that stripping action directly below me. But with a spey rod you have so much more line control. For instance if there is a good seam or eddy that you want to cover and its in the middle of the river i have found that you can actually strip your line back on this line by throwing a mend, strip, strip strip, mend strip strip. If the currenrt is slow you can throw less mends and more stripping and if the current is faster you may need to throw more mends. I hope this make sense.
Jeremiah
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-16-2009, 11:38 AM
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Howe about with crayfish imitations? Anyone have luck with these? If so what types of water, conditions, time of year etc seem to work best? Dead drift, swing, crazy strips, slow strips.

As a kid I used to kill it with that rapalla crayfish type lure... I figure big browns must love big meaty crawdads. ????
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-16-2009, 01:38 PM
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What trout size are you targeting? If 20-30 " like Alaskan Rainbow trout that using
trout version of articulated leach in 3 - 3.75' long ( lightly to modestly weighted only ) and 8-9' of T-8 , if bottom presentation is needed, is plenty or eventually T-10 or T-11 max.

The line which turnover good size fly is Airtfo 40+ ( Single hand version of scando line).
wt. 8 ( 330 [email protected]') or wt.9 ( 360 [email protected]' head) will turn over 10' 40 gr sink polyleader quite well.

You can always cut it 7-8' from the front and make multi-tip version then
even heaver polyleader will work well.

Even wt.7 ( 29--300 gr head) if cut from the front 6-7' can handle polyeader easily.

You don't need Skagit line to target trout and I doubt MI rivers have to many over 24" trouts, but I could be wrong.

BTW, 40+ comes in several versions from 220 gr to 360gr head ( typically 31-32', thought spec says 35') : floater, fast in intermediate and sink 3 and 6.
http://www.flylines.com/Flylines_Air..._FortyPlus.cfm

Tim Rajeff ( Rajeff Sports) , the side sponsor sell this lines.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-17-2009, 12:19 AM
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craw fish

I LOVE to use these types of patterens in MT. You are right trout love to eat them. I have found that they work best when fished DEEP. Bumping bottom at times in slow water. I like the patterns that have the hook pointing up. There are a ton of very detailed patterns on the net, but take too much time to tie. I usally base my ties off of these patterns, but skip a few of the "flashy" steps and pay attention to size and motion in the water. If you catch a crawdad and let them go the swim in 3-4in bursts and seek cover under rocks so i usally do 4-5 4in stips and let the fly settle. I usally get my stricks after the fly has settled to the bottom and i start to strip. They crush it on the 1-2nd strip. I usally use rabbit type flies because of the motion the claws have in the water. I have heard that the shells are softer in the early spring so the trout really key on them at this time, but i have had success during all the monthes of the year. For color i usally use dark browns with a little orange in them.
Jeremiah
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