Backing To running line? - Spey Pages
 
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-15-2008, 01:18 AM Thread Starter
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Backing To running line?

What is the best way to connect your backing to a running line such as Rio Slickshooter?
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-15-2008, 10:51 AM
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Loop to loop

I place a blind loop in the backing, and a loop in the running line. I make the loop in the backing large enough to pass the reel. The loop in mono can be a double surgeons, bimini twist, or something similar. Be sure the backing loop is double catch or sealed with CA, so it will not come open.

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-15-2008, 11:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t_richerzhagen View Post
I place a blind loop in the backing, and a loop in the running line. I make the loop in the backing large enough to pass the reel. The loop in mono can be a double surgeons, bimini twist, or something similar. Be sure the backing loop is double catch or sealed with CA, so it will not come open.
Why is this better than a simple nailknot?
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-15-2008, 12:11 PM
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nail knot is my preference...kinda scary to see it zipping thro' the guides
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-15-2008, 02:36 PM
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hanshake loop vs. nail knot

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Why is this better than a simple nailknot?
A nail knot is not the best on a hard slick line. An albright knot would work. But the handshake loop Ted describes is better. And can be changed if that makes a difference.

BTW: Al Buhr describes how to make welded loops (easy to do with mono running lines) in his book How to Design Fly Lines.

Blind splice, double catch loops in braided backing are also easy. 100% I will put them up against any knot.

I fish because the voices inside my head tell me to.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-15-2008, 03:40 PM Thread Starter
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A nail knot is not the best on a hard slick line
That's why i asked, I've started out my spey casting experience with running lines like Powerflex and just used nail knots but figured a nail knot wouldn't grip slickshooter.

I've heard about the Al Buhr book a lot so i may get that.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-15-2008, 06:28 PM
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another option

Not sure whether this is the best option but it's one I use and I have not lost a line - yet! I simply strip the fly line down to the braided core over a couple of inches, using a solvent, and then tie a careful blood knot to join up with the braided backing. The knot is then finished off with Aquaseal and runs easily through the guides when the big moment comes.

Peter
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-16-2008, 03:01 PM
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connections

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Originally Posted by peter mcmullan View Post
Not sure whether this is the best option but it's one I use and I have not lost a line - yet! I simply strip the fly line down to the braided core over a couple of inches, using a solvent, and then tie a careful blood knot to join up with the braided backing. The knot is then finished off with Aquaseal and runs easily through the guides when the big moment comes.

Peter
If you're gonna go to that much trouble, just do a double catch blind splice. Dacron to dacron, no knots, no aquseal or anything required. Will hold till the cows come home. Guaranteed!

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-16-2008, 04:10 PM Thread Starter
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Does the al buhr book explain all the splices you guys are talking about?

Brand new to the splicing game so a good book is in order.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-16-2008, 06:28 PM
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Al Buhr's book

Al's book shows a lot of stuff. Different splicing methods,. How to make loops. A lot of usefull data on fly lines, etc. As nice as Al's book is, it doesn't show the double catch blind splice. And I'm not sure I can describe in words. But I'll try.

You can use either the splicing needle sold in flyshops or a piece of .010 music wire (guitar string) folded over to form a V loop.

Start by inserting tool into the center of the line (30lb dacron or the stripped core of a fly line) about 4" from the end. Work the tool down the center of the line towards the end, and out the side of the line about half way down. grab the other line with the tool, leaving only enough line through the loop as necessary (about 1/4") and pull the second line up inside the first line and out the side.

Now insert the tool into the side of the second line (about 4" or 5" from the end) and run it down the center towards the junction point of the two lines. Out the side of the line about 1/4" from the juction point. With the tool, grab the first line by the end and pull it inside the second line and out the side.

You can now grab the two ends, pull everything up tight, compress the outside lines by working them, one at a time, down towards the junction point. Trim the exposed ends of each line so that when everythiing is pulled tight, the ends of each line are inside the other line. Along with about 2" of each line interlocking inside the other.

Works like a chinese finger puzzle. Only double. No knots. No exposed ends.

Now if all of this sounds like Greek to you, it is better explained, along with graphics in the istructions that come with those splicing needles put out by Cortland

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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-16-2008, 07:14 PM
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personally use a bimini in the backing and then double over 50# slickshooter and set loop with twin nail knots of 20# maxima(chameleon pref but ultragreen ok too) As long as the nail knots are perfect(no overlapping wraps) and are set tight this is a very strong connection that can be done in the field without glue. I have never seen this connection fail and have set up hundreds of lines thi way.

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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-18-2008, 01:06 AM
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UV Cure

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personally use a bimini in the backing and then double over 50# slickshooter and set loop with twin nail knots of 20# maxima(chameleon pref but ultragreen ok too) As long as the nail knots are perfect(no overlapping wraps) and are set tight this is a very strong connection that can be done in the field without glue. I have never seen this connection fail and have set up hundreds of lines thi way.
What Brian does with the Bimini works really well,if I have to field dress any knot I field dress with UV Cure...Cats whiskers!
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-19-2008, 01:19 AM
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For the last two years I have used the blood knot as described by Peter McMullan to join the slick shooter to the backing. It sometimes takes a little patience but when you get the knot set with out any overlays it works fine.
It has helped me to warm up the 8 or ten inches of slick shooter with hot water before tying the knot. I use a nail knot to tie the slick shooter to the fly line (again warming the SS before tying) and then coat this knot with UV cure. No problems so far.

Whitefish
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