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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-01-2004, 07:27 PM Thread Starter
Buz
 
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Loops- again

I tried this in the loops section but received no response, so thought I would try here....

This weekend I decided to learn how to put braided loops in my backing and running lines. So, pulled some instructions from the web cut off a 3 foot piece of braided mono and using a bodkin threader as advised in the instructions I was making great loops in the 3 ft piece in no time at all. Then I tried to put the loop into the full line and could no longer pull the loop down thru. It seems that the only way I'll be able to put a loop in a full line is to use the cortland loop tool or a piece of piano wire long enough to pass the entire spool of line thru the wire loop, then pull thru. Does this seem correct or am I doing something wrong?

When looking for instructions for making the loop I did find some (including the LL Bean Fly fishing for Striped Bass Handbook) that recomended pulling the loop from the tag end rather than the line end. This method worked with the bodkin threader, but the loop produced seemed as though it would pull out easily.

What do you guys do? Am I doing something wrong or should I just go buy the tool or long wire?
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-01-2004, 07:44 PM
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Hi Buz -

Not sure I follow your description, but I think you are on the right track.

Easy method:
After making the loop, just cut the loop to about 4-6 inches total length and use the inch-worm method to get the fly line into the open end, work it up and put a nail knot at the bottom before trimming flush and sealing with aquaseal or other flexible glue.

Better method:
Strip the core of the flyline, then use the wire or tool to poke down the crotch of the loop you made and out the open end. Now put the stripped fly core in the tool/wire and pull the start of the coating right up tight so the stripped core pokes out at the base of the loop. trim the core flush and whip/glue as Kush instructed.

In other words, make a loop in the braid and thread the open end on the fly line.

Good luck, maybe someone will make a step/step image sequence.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-01-2004, 08:00 PM
MJC
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Hey Buz...

I don't see how the loop tool or a long wire will be any different then using a bobbin threader. Maybe I missed something. For what you want to do I think you will have to pull the tag into the line. I have never had a problem with this method but if you are worried about the tag pulling out use the extra lock step as shown in Dan Blanton's instruction. Take care, MJC
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-02-2004, 03:03 AM
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The trick is to clean the outer of the fly line from the inner core for about 8 inches or more, then using super glue seal and stiffen about 2 inches of the inner core and push it right through a 6 inch piece of braided monofilament. When you get it through you pull it until the line outer is at least 1 inch inside the braided mono. then using a splicing tool, splice the lot, mono braid and inner core into a loop. Trim it off, add a drop of super glue on the splice and one onto the end where the mono braid is over the inner core. This is 100%. locks the inner and outer together and removes any differential stretch between inner and outer, which causes cracking under stress. Cheers Max
post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-02-2004, 11:26 AM Thread Starter
Buz
 
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Hi all,
thanks for the quick response. I'm not concerned with putting loops on the end of the flyline (where Juro I've been very successfully using your method and Max after I figure out these loops I'm going to try yours), but with putting very thin loops in the backing and a braided mono running line. When I looked for instructions for making the loops I found two different methods:
1. make loop at tag end and pull it up thru the core
2. make loop at line end and pull it down thru the core
Method 2
http://www.worldwaters.com/retail/common/community/article.asp?id=261&mscssid=T4GQRFSP2GGV9GKX8EKJB2W 7NDMC99F6
seems to me as though it will make the best loop in that should it release it can only tighten on itself. But, unless I'm doing something wrong, or making to big an issue of the whole thing, I think I'll have to buy the tool.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-02-2004, 11:53 AM
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Buz

that is the right method for backing. The tool is cheap, only a few bucks. You can also make one easily from guitar string or wire leader material.

Ted
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-09-2004, 11:45 AM
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I never thought of putting braided loops on backing. I prefer (from my gear days) a bimini twist on the backing, then I make a connecting loop on the fly line by folding over and wrapping with kevlar thread, a little super glue, some gorilla glue for added security and there you have it. How does the braided loop work on the backing?

Vinnie
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-09-2004, 12:15 PM
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vinnie

MaxG has a great way to put a braided loop on spectra (use search to find). This is essential for Spectra, as it will slice through other material very easily. This loop would work in Dacron, but it would not be needed there, as you can put in a blind splice and it does not cut into itself or other material.

Ted
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-09-2004, 12:40 PM
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Ted

Howdy Ted,

I found the site but the thread must dead as I can't find the article. I read the other threads on this site and must say that the spectra sounds like a love hate relationship when it comes to working with it. I'll stick with what I works for me.

Vinnie

P.S. That is quite a nice and informative site. Thanks for pointing in that direction.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-09-2004, 01:11 PM
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Gsp braids have vert poor knot strength, Biminis run to a minimum of about 80% depending on the number of twists and the tightness, but at best about 90% with 70 twists. The splice loop using GsP inside braided mono is 100% and the mono braid protects the GsP braid and also the other loop connection from getting cut to bits by the thin GsP. Max
post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-11-2004, 12:35 AM
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Maxg,

I am interested in your spectra/braid loop. Could you give a quick run-down?

Thanks.

Tight lines - tyler.

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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-11-2004, 12:50 AM
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Brief description

I lost Max's picture from my hard drive, so I can't post it. Basically you run the spectra through the braided material, then make the loop in the braid in the usual way(including the GSP). Apply a drop of superglue (Max specified a loctite brand) to the section of braid and GSP below the loop. I close the free braid end around the GSP with tying thread, cut any free ends and coat with aquaseal. You now have GSP running into a braided loop, coaxially. The braid protects the GSP from itself and anything it might be attached to, like fly line.

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