Join Date: Feb 2002
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|Originator: jeb||Date: 2/8/2000 5:24 AM|
I've been using a spey rod for about 3 years now and have never taped my ferrules. Why tape? For increased rod strength? Not taping has had no ill effects--my rod is still in 100% working order. Thanks for the feedback.
|Originator: el_loco_alto||Date: 2/8/2000 4:40 PM|
As I understand it, ferrules are taped in order to prevent adjoining rod sections from twisting apart.
|Originator: Dana||Date: 2/8/2000 5:03 PM|
There are many factors that will impact upon whether or not to tape your ferrules. One is the design of the ferrules themselves. Spogot-type ferrules seem to twist less then the traditional "tip-over-butt"-type ferrules. Another has to do with the amount of movement happening during the cast. I know a fellow from Washinton who uses Windcutter-type lines that require a short casting stroke, and he never tapes his ferrules. On the other hand, a friend from BC uses long-bellied lines (over 100' of belly) and the amount of rod movement required to cast that length of line always causes the rod sections to twist, loosten, and eventually separate.
One thing is certain: not taping ferrules will allow the sections to twist, which could cause you problems; taping prevents this. Because I cast the long-bellied lines, I always tape, but I'd tape with a Windcutter or shooting head as well
|Originator: Sinktip||Date: 2/8/2000 7:05 PM|
I also fish a Windcutter but still get twisting if I don't tape. I can live with the twisting but would hate to cast off a tip section. I read a post some time ago, maybe some of the members here can tell the story first hand, of a man who hung his cast in the far trees and as he flipped the rod trying to get the fly free, his tip slid down the line. As I understand it, he went swimming. I choose to tape.
|Originator: Andy||Date: 12/24/2000 9:03 PM|
Couple of years back I took a class with Mike Maxwell. One of his techniques is to coat the ferrules with white candle wax. Instead of taping the ferrules use a twist-on motion when putting the rod together. The friction from the twisting would "melt" the wax inside the ferrule. I've been doing that and fortunately I have not sent sections of my spey rods flying during a cast so far. I wonder if anyone else used this method.
|Originator: Carl||Date: 12/25/2000 2:53 AM|
Andy, I use wax too, and haven't had a section loosen yet. I do check them about once every hour or two to be sure, though. The only time I think the wax might not be sufficient is if you assemble your rod where/when it is warm, then fish in significantly colder conditions. When fishing one-handed rods, I've noticed that those conditions can cause material shrinkage and thus loosening. I've also experienced the reverse-- assembling a cold rod on a cold morning, then having a stuck rod in the heat of the day when I'm done fishing--due to expansion of the materials. I'd be interested to hear from anyone who has used both wax and tape methods and who has a preference based on experience.
|Originator: Rob||Date: 12/25/2000 4:36 AM|
A number of years ago a good friend of mine was fishing with a brand new rod on the North Umpqua. He chose this day not to tape the rod. Fishing the first run with the new rod he made a powerful cast and sent the tip flying across the river into trees on the far side. This was early july the water was still up and rather cold. he had to swim for it. I recomment taping it only takes a couple extra minutes and it can save your rod. i have also heard of rods breaking while casting and fighting fish because of loose joints. In my opinion there is no reason not to tape.. Do i always tape? no i guess this is a so as i say not as i do deal :O)
|Originator: Dana||Date: 12/25/2000 8:31 PM|
A few times per season I wax my ferrules, and every time I fish or cast I tape them. Even with waxed ferrules I have had sections migrate and separate (and break!) when casting, so I always tape.
|Originator: Andy||Date: 12/28/2000 6:23 AM|
Thank you all for the feedback and heartfelt cautions. I shall tape ferrules from now on - my new year's resolution.
|Originator: J_D||Date: 7/18/2001 10:52 AM|
At the risk of sounding like I'm whipping a dead horse, I would like to add the following comments to this discussion.
First the Wax: Use a "smelly " candle. The kind women like to have around the house at Xmas time. Politically incorrect I suppose, but you get the point. These things have an oil mixed with the wax which results in a softer wax that works better for what we want. Twist at assembly, wax softens due to heat generated by friction. When disassembling, grip the female ferrule with your whole hand and hold for a few seconds to allow heat from your hand (if not frozen) to soften the wax. Then twist to loosen. When the ferrules are really stuck tight, a dunk in the river will cool them allowing the graphite to contract and loosen up. An ice cube, if available, is a lot neater. Still need the heat from your hand to soften the now really hardened wax. Handy wipes are also useful for obtaining a better grip.
Tape: I used to think of taping as a royal pain until I was shown this neat little trick. When you unwrap the tape, rather than discarding it, rewind it straight back over itself on the female ferrule. (tip over butt type) Then it is there, ready to be used the next time out. You may be able to get half a dozen uses out of it before replacing it. Sure beats finding that wad of sticky tape (that you forgot to throw out when you got home) in your jacket pocket the next time out. Not to mention the fact that a roll of tape lasts one hell of a long time.
|Originator: Fred Evans||Date: 7/21/2001 11:27 PM|
Ah heck ... one more. House smells good from the 5 zuk nut breads in the oven and no where to go for an hour. I rairly tape my rods but do use the wax on some of them. The Sage blanks have a nasty tendency to loosen up, the more line out (I'm still one of those 'old timers' that pretty much still use DT lines. The 8/9 mid-spey had the tip cut off and is now the base line for my sink tips. But I digress: Tape or no I'll check my rod connections frequently, especially if the feel of the rod changes. Dead on guess one of the sections has loosened up on me. The longer the line in the water/more umph to cast the higher the prob. I'll be checking often.
With the 7136-4's (both old and new) it's the connection between the butt and second section that will loosen up. Check it often, or as I found out, pay a chunk to get a new butt section built.
One other thing I find interesting about the Sage blanks is I've had them 'stick' together so solidly I can't get the darn things apart with out wrapping the connection in tinfoil filled with ice cubes. Worked every time (suggestion long time ago for me on the board). Always the connecting point between section two and three on a 4 piece rod.
In the sanded flat gray blanks such as the loomis or the connection sections in Scott I've never had one loosen up yet. Go Figure?
|Originator: yelostn801||Date: 11/24/2001 9:46 PM|
Curious, is there a particular type of tape you use for taping your ferrules?
|Originator: Fred Evans||Date: 11/27/2001 4:53 AM|
For Mo'a (it's the JoanMeister who speaks French) it's good 'ol black stretchie electical tape. And using the Sage 10wt for some winter fishing (Chetco at 6000 cfs vs. the Rogue at 800) with a RIO Aclrtr, tape or watch the center connection (in just a few casts) loosen up. The 'torque-twist' on the rod sections is unreal when you're laying out 80-100 feet of line plus a 15-17 foot leader.
I was wrong; rest of guys on Board were right.
|Originator: Willie Gunn||Date: 11/27/2001 7:36 PM|
Hi velostn 801.
Try 3m Scotch tape its very good.
What you boys call it I do not know.
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