help with first custom sink tip - Spey Pages
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 01-21-2002, 10:12 AM Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2002
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Originator: hammerheadDate: 1/21/2002 6:12 AM
I started with an Orvis DT F 11wt spey line. I compared both ends with a micrometer and they seemed identicle, yet one end was tagged "this end to reel".
Even though both ends appeared identicle I reversed the line and cut back what was the rear taper, leaving about two feet of taper. My reason for doing this was to save the forward taper incase it was different and or the end results were poor. (o.k. I was chicken)
Next I  took an Orvis super sink 10 wt. shooting head(6-6.5 ips sink rate) and cut it into sections.
I looped the front section which is tapered and 15' long to the cut back 11wt DT F.
The rod I have is a T&T 14' 9wt.
I'm a rookie caster but could make some decent casts and alot that weren't with 65'
to 70' outside the rod tip, plus short leader. It seemed  the sink tip section wanted to turn end over end instead of rolling out. I made my loops from braided mono. Small and coated with aquaseal.
 These are a few of my questions:
Are the ends of my DT the same if they mic out the same or is there some other factor?
Should I cut the rest of the main line taper off?
Would you consider this line to heavy for this rod?
This is  a good distance for my fishing so maybe it's a success?
Thanks for any help or input
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 01-21-2002, 03:24 PM Thread Starter
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Originator: Nooksack MacDate: 1/21/2002 11:24 AM
   You didn't say how the rod felt with the amount of line that you were casting, and that's important.  My Thomas & Thomas, a 15-foot "11-weight," definitely needs a 12-weight line.  But two sizes higher?  Dunnow. 
   As is, with just the top two feet of front taper remaining, the line could probably turn over your sink tip.  But if in doubt, cut off the remaining front taper.  If you can find 50 lb. braided loops, they're larger and stiffer than 35 lb. loops.  But despite talk about excessive hinging of soft loops, I doubt if it makes much difference.  My experience is that there's a surprisingly small momentum differential between "successful" and "unsuccessful" forward casts; it seems to be a matter of a small percentage difference in applied power.  (And before long, you'll develop a feel for how well a cast is likely to do when you're halfway through it.)
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 01-22-2002, 12:21 AM Thread Starter
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Originator: Nooksack MacDate: 1/21/2002 8:21 PM
Scott, to follow-up on your questions:  There should have been no difference in the tapered ends of your Orvis fly line; the "this end to reel" tag is purely arbitrary on a DT line.  I like to profile new fly lines, using a tape measure and a micrometer.  I record the diameters of the front tip, belly, and running line, and the lengths of the front and rear tapers and belly sections.  I put this data on a small piece of paper which I keep in the line's box.  Don't know if this catches me any more fish, but it's instructive. 
   I also add a marker to spey lines, 60 feet from the loop at the front of the belly.  I use a waterproof felt marking pen; some use coated bright thread wrap.  With a 15-foot tip (I don't count the leader) and the marker at the reel, I know that I'm casting 75 ft.; with the marker at the rod tip, 90 ft.
   If you're casting 85-90 feet with some consistancy, you're off to an excellent start.
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 01-22-2002, 05:38 AM Thread Starter
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Originator: loco_altoDate: 1/22/2002 1:38 AM
Great advice above.  I would also add that I fish a Cortland Spey DT 11/12 (which is fatter than DT13 in the belly) on a Sage 9140-3.  That's up to 4 line weights over the rod rating.  Granted, I like to feel the rod load deeply to compensate for my less-than-perfect timing, and also to make casting heavy tips less jerky. 
The message here is, if it feels good, then it IS good.  Perhaps if you can get ahold of a DT10 you can try that out, too.  you probably live near someone on this board who can lend you such a line, maybe even me - if in doubt, just ask - lines are too expensive to dive in blindly. 
good luck, Steve
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 01-22-2002, 08:00 AM Thread Starter
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Originator: hammerheadDate: 1/22/2002 4:00 AM
Thanks alot for your input
I was thinking about the hinging problem and realized I attached the sink tip wrong. Threading it through its own loop and not getting the "square knot" connection. Criticle??
The only other line I have to cast is a Wulff TT 10/11, short belly. I've never thrown sinking tips before so I can't make a real comparrison but it did feel heavy.
I think what I'm really looking for is some confidence in the line. The line / rod match so I can  put the blame where it belongs and that would be my casting. It does get frustrating! But dang what a kick!!
(out of Olympia)
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