Splicing running line - Spey Pages
 
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 01-01-2002, 02:24 AM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
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Originator: Peter-s-cDate: 12/31/2001 10:24 PM
Getting as much distance as possible when fishing at the Niagara River Whirlpool, improves the odds of getting fish.  On my old St. Croix 1409 with a 300 grain Rio DC sinktip, I had no trouble overhead casting the line 105' plus about 15' to 20' or backing.  However, I was always reluctant to shoot that much line at the Whirlpool and leave myself with a backing knot in the guides when a fish hits.  Now I'm looking at a 500 or 600 grain DC line that's a 100' long for an 11 wt.  Obviously I'll be able to get better distance than the old St. Croix.
 
What's the odds of splicing in some additional running line?
 
Peter
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 01-01-2002, 03:20 AM Thread Starter
 
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Originator: J.R. SPEYDate: 12/31/2001 11:20 PM
Can we assume that this line has a 24-30' DC head and the rest is either floating or intermediate running line? When I first read it I thought the entire line was sinking, but I think not. Splicing additional running line to this should be no problem, or you could probably use a loop-to-loop connection to additional running line, too. Boy, you really are working for those fish!√Ź
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 01-01-2002, 08:07 PM Thread Starter
 
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Originator: Peter-s-cDate: 1/1/2002 4:07 PM
Ya, it's a density compensated (DC) 24' head sinktip with a floating belly and running line. 
 
I was considering laying the two ends of the running line parallel to one another with about a 2' overlap, then use three nailknots to hold them together with heat shrink over the whole affair.  Won't be the smoothest joint but it should hold.
 
I was just wonering if anbody had a better method?
 
Peter
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 01-01-2002, 09:28 PM Thread Starter
 
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Originator: MJCDate: 1/1/2002 5:28 PM
Peter, The epoxy splice works real good and is pretty easy after you do a couple or you can  super glue the butt ends together and slide 6" of braided mono over the joint and whip the ends down or even use the shrink tube on the ends. You can also strip off a couple inches of the plastic coating by VERY LIGHTLY heating same with a lighter and using the edge of your fly tying sissors to strip coating,  lap the ends, whip and if you want use the braided mono over the joint for extra protection. If you look back through the old threads you can find some more innovative ideas on line slpicing.
 
 
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 01-02-2002, 01:28 AM Thread Starter
 
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Originator: JohnDate: 1/1/2002 9:28 PM
With most Rio lines, there are instruction included to make a loop for connecting to the line to the  backing.  You can use the same metnog for making a splice.
Rio recommends that you remove the plastic coating from the woven core by soaking the line in acetone.  You should do this reapeatedly to make sure that you remove 100% of the plastic and both cores becomes soft and  limber.  Then open up the plastic core on one line by running a needle up the hollow core.  With a piece of folded fine guitar wire, pull the core of the other line up into the opened core.  It's much like using a threader on a bobbin.  A few inches should do.  Glue with head cement   For safety, nail knot and cover with flexament or similar. 
This works well if you get 100% of the plastic off of the cores and they are soft and limber.  Otherwise it is a bitch.  The Rio instructions give you some other hints
 
As the previous messaged stated, it becomes easier after you do a few.
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