Join Date: Feb 2002
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|Originator: loco_alto||Date: 10/22/2001 7:14 AM|
How do you maniacs move your rods from point "A" to point "B"? I just spent 5 days with two spey rods banging around in the back of my capped pickup (on a carpet ) as I rattled along the washboards from Sherars to Macks, and now my rods fully look like hell. I'm considering a cordura rod-n-reel type case for hole hopping, keeping them strung, but this still requires at least a partial breakdown and retaping twixt holes. Roof top carriers ... I've got a Yakima rack on the PU and could certainly use a ski or snowboard carriers for double duty, but what about all that dust in the reel? man, even my snot turns gray from several days on that river.
And for you pontoon boat users, how do you transport your rod while floating?
more interestingly, I had to clamp down hard on my CFO on Thurs morning when the spindle showed itself (!!) and the water was too deep to go further. "pop"
|Originator: J.R. SPEY||Date: 10/22/2001 12:55 PM|
The way to go hole to hole is with a vac-rac product. These used to be handled by Rio Products over here, but are now available from Redington. It may look dangerous, but I've roared down terrible roads at 70mph with my rods in these things with several guides in Iceland and everything stayed put. Even with four rods on each rack. The vacuum ones are better than the magnetic models and do less damage to the vehicles finish. Keep your reels reasonably clean by using a well padded reel case that fits on over the reelseat. I use the Harding model, but there are severl more that would work.
Several companies make rod holders for pontoon boats and that's what I use. The length of double-handed rods makes these a little awkward, but there really is no other option short of breaking them down.
Another trick which works for people who insist on having their rods in the vehicle due to the amount of dust or overhanging branches is to revise your taping system. Wrap your ferrules with spiral wraps tightly but do not cross over the connection. These wraps are mostly intended to protect the ferrule from cracking due to the stresses of casting. You'd have two wraps at each connection. Those can be left on all day. Use the longitudinal strip to connect the two spiral wraps. This is designed to prevent the ferrules from loosening. One strip does it on each ferrule. This can easily be taken off and replaced each time you transport your rod. It's still a bit of fumbling, but far easier than the alternative of completely rewrapping each ferrule at every stop. I hope my explanation is clear enough for everyone.
|Originator: Nooksack Mac||Date: 10/23/2001 12:17 AM|
I just checked out a website that should have the answer for anyone's rod-carrying problem: www.rodmounts.com.
The bane of modern car design is the lack of rain gutters. My mini-van does have a sunroof, however... I slapped together this crude but effective rodcarrier from lumber scraps. A 5-ft. board with carpet on the bottom has 6" wood risers near each end with two half-circles cut in the top and lined with fabric. Near the top on each side are threaded throughbolts (wood dowells would look better). Heavy-duty rubber bands hold one or two rods securely.Knotted straps on the front of the board are clamped in the closed sunroof; a rope at the rear goes around the hinges of my minivan's upper rear window.
For a previous station wagon with fixed roof rack, I sewed together a pair of nylon-covered block-foam pads with Velcro fasteners. Both racks go on or off in less than a minute.
|Originator: Eugene||Date: 10/24/2001 11:29 PM|
I always keep a pair of heavy woolen mittens and a roll of duct tape behind the seat of my truck. I wrap the reel and the butt end of my rod in a jacket and put that end on the floor in the front of the truck bed. I put my fishing vest on top of that for weight. The jacket provides impact protection and keeps the dust out. I then wrap the mittens around the rod and duct tape the mittens to the top of the tail gate in such a way that the rod is both held securely and won't bang of the tail gate. I don't tape the rod, just the mittens. It works. I've made many trips down the Sherers to Macks road without a problem. Gets a little gummy stuff on the tail gate but that pretty much rubs off at the end of the day.
|Originator: loco_alto||Date: 10/25/2001 7:51 PM|
thanks guys. Does anyone out there use Yakima ski holders to hold their rods?
|Originator: Willie Gunn||Date: 10/25/2001 8:49 PM|
I remember this subject coming up a while ago. I have had trouble with the suction carriers as they tend to work loose at speed. The trouble with using ski holders is with long rods 15' + either the front protrudes and blows sideways at speed or the back sticks out at the back and you worry about other motorists bumping into it.
I now use a compromise using a special bracket that attaches to the bonnet ? hood ? and a ski rack on the roof.
|Originator: Fred Evans||Date: 10/26/2001 1:40 AM|
Tell us about your "special bracket." With just me in the old Ford Explorer or VW Jetta three rods is an ok thing. When you've go lots of good (Bob and Laura) company, car gets a bit stuffed. Dummy here forgot to put two of his rods in the car ...... and you can guess the rest. The Phlg. reels will take a hell of a shot (read that 'road rash') and probably saved a thou and a half of fishing rods.
Got to get a plan B so I'm really following the alternatives on exterior rod carriers. How does yours work? Personal design or variation of a theme?
|Originator: GB Skunk||Date: 10/26/2001 4:21 AM|
Joe Howell at the Blue Heron Fly Shop on the N. Umpqua sells a good, magnetic rod carrier. It's made locally. It has a strong magnet and a thing on it so it won't scratch your paint. His web page is http://main.wanweb.net/bheron/
|Originator: Willie Gunn||Date: 10/27/2001 12:16 AM|
Hi Fred et al
This should explain the thinking I an trying to draw the plumbing but it is just as you want it. A bent pipe here a screw there
|Originator: Fred Evans||Date: 10/27/2001 2:07 AM|
Sounds cool! If there was a line drawing of the 'nuts and bolt's' not coming out in the attachment.
|Originator: Willie Gunn||Date: 10/27/2001 11:17 PM|
You are very impatient my daughter had not completed this drawing.
I hope it makes sense, it has a slight bend to clear the bonnet / hood. To much bend however causes the rod to catch on the bonnet / hood so care is needed. The whole thing measures about 4" so it stays inside the bumper/ fender.
Any questions ?
|Originator: pescaphile||Date: 10/28/2001 12:49 AM|
Yakima ski racks works great for rod racks. I use mine to transport my fully-assembled 15 footer and it works as well as any custom rod rack.
You might have a problem if it used on a pickup though because the two racks would be so close to each other. This would let your rod flail wildly.
If you can mount the rear rack on a canopy to get some distance between the two mounts it would work well.
|Originator: Willie Gunn||Date: 10/28/2001 1:45 PM|
How far apart are your racks ? I would guess 5 - 6 feet so you have another 9 feet of rod sticking out. Which way does it stick out forward or backward ?
As I said in my previous postings both have problems. Do you run to the river from your house with the rod up ? I find that this is where the problems occur. I have just taken down my rod which was assembled and taped in April.
Have you any tips as I have to use the front ski rack with my special.
|Originator: Carl||Date: 10/28/2001 3:31 PM|
I'm using the vacuum mount from RodMounts (site above), and I have no affiliation with them. I really like them, especially for the price! I've had no problems with movement, even with two strung rods at 80mph (sometimes my need for fishing therapy is desperate). I use the mounts so the rods are horizontal and extend forward where I can see the tip. Reels in neoprene cases just to be safe. I use electrical tape to tape the tips apart if I'm transporting two rods side by side so they don't hurt each other. I like that I can just remove the mounts at the parking spot and stow them, leaving less evidence that I might have something worth stealing (I don't leave anything of value in my car that might entice a thief). Sometimes I have two rods along if I'm loaning one to a friend.
|Originator: pescaphile||Date: 10/28/2001 7:53 PM|
I have the yakima racks mounted on a Subaru Loyale. I haven't measured the distance between the two racks but I'd guess it to be about 7 feet.
I place the rod in the ski rack with the tip pointing to the rear of the car. I have the reel in front of the front rack and close the front rack on the upper grip. The rear rack closes on the rod blank. I probaly have about seven or eight feet sticking out the back.
I've also tried it with the tuip forward and it seems to works okay. On one hand, I like it better that way as the rod tip doesn't stick out to be walked into or hit something when maneuvering in tight quarters and I can see the tip from the drivers seat. On the other hand, it really oscillates pretty good when driving the highway and an oncoming semi blasts by me. Probably not a big deal but I don't like that so when travelling the highway I'll have it stick out the back.
I driven thru some rough roads and have no problems. I've taken that little subaru all the way out to Bighorn run on the Thompson and the rod stays secure (yea those little subarus will really surprise you where they'll go!)
I also have an ol' beater pickup with a canopy that has a cheap 1" pipe rack on it. I've mounted my rod to it using a bungy cord on one rack to hold the rod handle. On the other end I merely used a peice of old flyline ties toi the rack. I just wrap the line over the blank with an x pattern (like tying bead chain eyes) and then secure it with a few half hitches. I've driven some nasty biuncy roads with this setup too and it has never loosened up a bit. But I prefer the yakima rack as it is so easy.
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