transporting rods on pontoon boats? - Spey Pages
 
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-20-2001, 09:23 PM Thread Starter
 
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Originator: BruceDate: 11/20/2001 5:23 PM
Just wondering what ideas others have had.  I run a pac 9000. thanks.
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-20-2001, 09:39 PM Thread Starter
 
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Originator: cootDate: 11/20/2001 5:39 PM
Your Question re: Rod holders for pontoon boats; is important.The majority
of builders have failed to consider this need.The holder and rod must not
conflict with manouvering the boat with oars.
On a Bucks Bag I was forced to extend the frame element containing the oar
lock to provide a suitable location for a rod holder.
Many other makers have also failed to recognize this requirment .Look
carefully at the design you propose to buy and make sure that it either has
a suitable rod holder or that it can be modified to incorporate one.
Bud Smithers
Kelowna BC

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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-21-2001, 12:54 AM Thread Starter
 
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Originator: loco_altoDate: 11/20/2001 8:54 PM
I use rodmounts pontoon boat mount system (www.rodmounts.com) on my Pac 900 - works like a charm for $75. I provide more detail in the thread below about transporting spey rods
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-21-2001, 01:15 AM Thread Starter
 
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Originator: SinktipDate: 11/20/2001 9:15 PM
A buddy of mine made up some carriers for his two boats. He used1 1/2" heavy walled PVC and a 3-4' cam strap. The 16" or so of PVC has a vertical slit cut out on one side just a little wider than the real seat. This slit goes far enough down that the rod butt almost comes out the end of the pipe. The backside of the pipe has two this slits cut horizontally: one near the bottom and one near the top. The cam strap goes in one through the pipe and out the other. It then wraps around the pontoon and is cinched tight. The rods sit nice and snug in the pipe and if you are expecting rough water, can be bungied in easily. Total cost is less than $10.

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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-21-2001, 01:15 AM Thread Starter
 
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Originator: J_DDate: 11/20/2001 9:15 PM
It seems as though most are thinking in terms of commercially available rod holders of the type that hold the rod by the grip and leave the rest of the rod exposed. I am not sure I would want to risk transporting my rod(s) in that fashion through anything that had even a hint of white water.
 
I would be inclined to lash a 14 or 15 foot piece of 3 or 4 inch ABS or PVC tube to the frame keeping one end at least 6 inches behind the front end of the pontoon and letting whatever remains hang out the back. Put the rod in the tube, secure with bungee cord so that it will not fall out. Make whatever cuts or modifications to the tube as are necessary to accomodate the reel so that you have full protection of the rod and as much as is feasable for the reel. Go to the hardware store and see what is available. Use your imagination. You can probably come up with something that could also be mounted on a roof rack.
 
Maybe I should go into the business of making and selling these things.
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-21-2001, 05:08 AM Thread Starter
 
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Originator: JohnDate: 11/21/2001 1:08 AM
The problem with a horizontal mount, or one that is slightly inclined,  is that it can easily interfer with the oars and rowing.  I have a PAC 900 and I don't see how I could mount the type that loca alto is using and still row.  Also, I am of the school that you should not leave your oars dangling in the water.  A horizontal carrier interfers with "parking" the oars.  What do you do locl alto?
I have been playing with a vertical mount on my cargo platform.  I am goiing to use about 5 feet of schedule 200 PVC, 2 inches in diameter, and cut a slot slightly wider than the reel seat to near the bottom.  Sideways and rearward braces will hold it solid.  The major problem is that it is difficult to find the lightweight schedule 200 pipe anymore.  The heavierweight sch 40 is so cheap, they don't want to stock both. The thinner pipe would make it easier to fit the slot for the reel seat.. 
A friend of mine has a three man pontoon boat and it comes fitted with a vertical rod carrier made of wood.
Does anyone have any experience with a vertical carrier?
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-21-2001, 09:03 AM Thread Starter
 
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Originator: cootDate: 11/21/2001 5:03 AM

I made my rod holder extensions from copper tube which inserts tight
inside the pontoon frme tubes I inserted two right angle tubes about 10
inches into the top frame and extending inwards . I mounted two adjustable
rod holders which can adjust from horizontal to vertical and lock in
position. For white water I set them inclined slightly upwards and ponting
forward then I can watch the rod tips while rowing. You often get a strike
just as you come out of the white water.
Bud Smithers British Columbia Can

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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-21-2001, 09:22 AM Thread Starter
 
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Originator: loco_altoDate: 11/21/2001 5:22 AM
J_D - with the system that you describe, the rods hanging off the boat at the pontoon level, I'd be concerned about them catching the front or rear of tall standing waves. If it caught a wave it would act like lever on one side, causing causing boat to perhaps rotate sideways to the standing waves, which can be quite dangerous. This is all a guess that I'd be careful about in big waves and big water. The rodmounts can be adjusted to lean upwards (towards vertical) to avoid this.

John - rowing and shipping oars are no problem as I have them set up. I'll attach a picture to the next message, since I need to restart the computer to download the images ... here goes (zzzz)
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-21-2001, 09:35 AM Thread Starter
 
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welcome to my garage. So this picture (hopefully) shows how the mount attaches to the pontoon boat frame. It is pictured with a one single hander that happened to be readily available for photo - works just as well with 2 speys mounted
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-21-2001, 09:38 AM Thread Starter
 
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Originator: loco_altoDate: 11/21/2001 5:38 AM
try again
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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-21-2001, 09:49 AM Thread Starter
 
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Originator: loco_altoDate: 11/21/2001 5:49 AM
here is a picture of the oars shipped forward. THey can't be shipped rearwards because the rods get in the way. maybe this is what you were thinking about
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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-23-2001, 11:25 AM Thread Starter
 
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Originator: Steelheader69Date: 11/23/2001 7:25 AM
I have one suggestion for all of you....GET A BIGGER BOAT!!!!!  LOL, just kidding.  I have a 16' cataraft and have no problem putting any rod I have on it.  I had a custom frame built.  I made sure I had room for rod storage.  It is kind of a pain, especially on the Outcast models.  They're made on rocker hulls, so you want as MUCH weight centered on that boat as possible.  You have too much weight front or back and you'll easily flip that boat.  I ran my old outcast years ago through some class 3/4's and had a hard enough time keeping it solid let alone trying to balance a complete spey rod on it.  My biggest suggestion is to put it down when ever you decide to float to next destination.  What's more important, a quick jump on a hole or losing your gear flipping your boat? 
 
You might want to stay away from the verticle mounts, unless you float rivers that aren't overgrown with branches.  It only takes one little branch to snap the tip and ruin your day on the water.  Most of the rivers I fish have some obstructions here or there.  If you do want to have a verticle rod mount it's pretty easy.  Go to most marine shops and buy the ones they use on most saltwater fishing boats.  Just mount it directly to your seat and have rods sitting verticle behind you.  You may have to put a spacer in to push rods out from you a bit so they're not hitting you in back of the head.
 
Normally, when I had my 9' boats I would take down any rods bigger then the length of tubes.  Even if it was a 9'6" rod.  I found that it's better to be safe then sorry.  That's just my .02.
 
 
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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-25-2001, 12:20 PM Thread Starter
 
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Originator: J_DDate: 11/25/2001 8:20 AM
Good point about horizontal tube catching big waves. maybe that is not such a good idea to have the rod tubes overhanging the pontoons.
 
Couple more questions. Steelheader mentions problems with rocker hulls. A lot of the smaller boats have rocker hulls, some more so than others. Comments, pro and con? Another problem I have heard of is that of the pontoons "tacoing" of folding up on you. Any comments on that?
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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-26-2001, 06:49 AM Thread Starter
 
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To loco alto
 
Thanks for the pictures.  I never considered putting the rods inside of the frame. 
 
JFK
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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-10-2001, 01:26 PM Thread Starter
 
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Originator: Steelheader69Date: 12/10/2001 9:26 AM
Yes, they are know (outcasts) to buckle under heavy loads.  I've personally experienced a near buckling on mine.  Was running a class 3/4 and it fealt like my seat was on springs.  Looked and my frame was bowing.  Luckily, was a short run and held together.  I have seen pictures though of an outcast actually collapsing like a book on a class 3/4.  Quite literally sandwiched the guy in.  The big problem with outcasts, bucks, and the like are the way they build their frames.  Mind you, they're great boats for slow water and lakes.  Rocker hulls are designed to rotate, good maneuvering.  But crappy when it comes to whitewater.  I know from personal experience, running them for 12+ years.  You hit serious whitewater and I don't care who it is, you'll be having a rough time in those boats.  I started out running these things in whitewater only and have seen what class 4's do to boats like my 16', let alone an 8-9' rocker hulled cataraft.  Those who have said their smaller boats made it through a class 4 are either 1. running a Steelheader by skookum 2. lying or 3. not really running a class 4, but maybe a class 3 or less.  I've punched a few class 4's that literally have sent my 16' cat sailing in the air, with BOTH frames on it loaded with gear for a weekend float.  Now, that I've sailed off the point a bit, but the frames on those low end boats aren't built for hardcore water.  They're only built with maybe 2 or 3 crossmembers.  Usually square tubes and maybe 3/4 inch diameter.  Not enough stability and strength to hold you.  Want to find out if you're boat is truly whitewater ready?  If it is truly stable enough to handle class 3's up?  Stop the boat, and stand up.  Plain and simple.  If you don't have a standing platform, jump on the seat.  If you can't do this without trying to do a balancing act then keep it under the 3's.  You want as much tube in water as possible but still drawing some rise on tubes.  My 9' steelheader I had was wonderful for a one man boat.  Beat the pac 9 and fishcat I once had and the bucks bags I had used.  I could actually stand up on a platform IN FRONT of my seat and fish without balancing.  Mind you, if you put a platform in front of seat on an outcast or bucks and try standing up, well, just say you better have a life jacket on.  LOL
 
You know, if any of you have a question about cats, let me know.  I have about as much, if not more with cataraft then anyone.  I actually bought mine to whitewater around 1989 and then converted it quite awhile ago to fishing (gave up my driftboat after daughter was born and could only have one boat at time besides my sled).  I've run most boats out there.  In the whitewater realm I've really tested out a few boats.  From Sotar up to Maravia and most inbetween.  Bucketboats to selfbailers, kayaks up to cats. 
 
 
 
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