Butt cap - Spey Pages
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 08:21 AM Thread Starter
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Butt cap

Being new to the rod building game I have a question about the butt cap. Those who build the own grips do you turn a tenon on the last cork to accept the butt cap or do you just counter sink a cork and glue right to the rod blank then shape the butt end in the lathe? thanks Rob
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 12:05 PM
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I’m sure everyone is different.
On my rods I’ve always fitted a wood dowel well inside the blank and inside the butt cap then glued the whole lot together.
Then turn the corks to match the butt cap.
Always figured you can put a fair amount of pressure on the butt and it doesn’t hurt to have it solidly mounted.
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Last edited by jdcross; 05-16-2019 at 07:24 PM.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 01:42 PM
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I am new to rod building and have been receiving a bit of guidance from a well known builder. He and his business partner attach the last cork/rubber ring right to the blank, with the cork/rubber only partially drilled into so that the blank does not stick out the bottom of cork/rubber. The handle is then sanded/shaped on the blank. If you can't do this, because you have a low end lathe like me, one can make a plug of the same material as the last cork or rubber ring and glue it in and sand it flush. If you sand it while the glue is still wet the glue line disappears. Hope that makes sense.

Nate
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 08:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steelchromedome View Post
I am new to rod building and have been receiving a bit of guidance from a well known builder. He and his business partner attach the last cork/rubber ring right to the blank, with the cork/rubber only partially drilled into so that the blank does not stick out the bottom of cork/rubber. The handle is then sanded/shaped on the blank. If you can't do this, because you have a low end lathe like me, one can make a plug of the same material as the last cork or rubber ring and glue it in and sand it flush. If you sand it while the glue is still wet the glue line disappears. Hope that makes sense.

Nate
Thatís what I do. It requires chucking the blank into the lathe at the ferrule and two roller supports - one right above the upper handle, one at he reel seat. Donít forget to masking tape the bejeeezus out of the blank and seat anywhere they touches the machinery.
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-17-2019, 09:09 AM
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Bejeeezus.... That might be too technical for a new builder.

Dan

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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-17-2019, 04:03 PM
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Bejeeezus.... That might be too technical for a new builder.

Dan
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-23-2019, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Steelchromedome View Post
attach the last cork/rubber ring right to the blank, with the cork/rubber only partially drilled into so that the blank does not stick out the bottom of cork/rubber. The handle is then sanded/shaped on the blank. If you can't do this, because you have a low end lathe like me, one can make a plug of the same material as the last cork or rubber ring and glue it in and sand it flush. If you sand it while the glue is still wet the glue line disappears. Hope that makes sense.

Nate
Since my Meiser builder's kit already came with a 'butt plug', it hinted to me right away as to how I should be approaching this build and so I did what Nate mentioned above.
For wood dowels, I found the taper of round wood chopsticks to work quite well for turning your cork as well as wrapping thread at the ferrules.

Roland
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-23-2019, 11:51 AM Thread Starter
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I'm wondering if the handle can be turned on a mandrel using a live center tail stock then plugged and then placed back in the lathe without the tail stock and finished then reamed to size to accept the blank. As you can tell I'm really new to this so I hope this makes sense.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-23-2019, 01:37 PM
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I'm wondering if the handle can be turned on a mandrel using a live center tail stock then plugged and then placed back in the lathe without the tail stock and finished then reamed to size to accept the blank. As you can tell I'm really new to this so I hope this makes sense.
This is how I did my first grip. I bought some 24" x 1/4" threaded rods from the local Ace hardware which I coated with plumbers tape, the same length as the cork. Some I cut shorter with a hacksaw for the lower grip or for single hand grips. I glued the cork together and used washers the same diameter as the cork (1 1/4") and tightened it down with nuts. I used the same rod on my lathe to shape the cork. I then reamed it to fit the blank with the dream reamer set. Mr. Steve Godshall did the plug to fit the end. He cut the plug from a rubberized cork ring with a knife and sanded it to shape, glued it in the end of the rod, and sanded it flush while the glue was wet, in order to hide the glue line. I think it is easier to plug the end once on the rod. It makes reaming easier. Your mileage may vary. Hope that helps.

Nate

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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-23-2019, 01:55 PM
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British rods often have metal butt cap which has black rubber end so rod can be used as a wading stick. Now after I have began using bottom hand to hold the line I can wrap vulcanizing tape to it to improve line grip which shows on middle. These are aluminum and did cost only 5e (~$6) each.

Esa
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-23-2019, 02:02 PM
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For the bottom handle, I glue up my rings on a mandrel then remove and glue on an undrilled cork ring, eyeballing the center. When dry I put it back on the mandrel and turn it on a hand drill lathe with support as close to the non-butt end of the grip as I can manage. Then I drill out the grip a uniform diameter as close to the butt diameter of the blank as I can and just shy of going through the butt cap. Then glue onto the blank, so 3/4 of the butt ring is glued to the blank.

haunted by waters
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-23-2019, 02:23 PM Thread Starter
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I can see how reaming before you plug would be a lot easier. Using the tail stock with a live center gives me a much truer turning as it fits into the end of the mandrel nicely. Plugging the end shouldn't be much of a problem once it reamed to size and on the blank.I see anglers workshop sells rubberized cork plugs 1/2" x 3/4 and 3/8" x 5/8. Thanks guys, Rob P.S. Esa, why would I want to use a 400.00 rod blank as a wading stick?
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-23-2019, 06:32 PM
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Being a Brit. and having grown up with those metal and rubber buttons I can vouch that they were NOT included so that a rod could be used as a wading stick, which would have been bad news in every sense. Originally made of brass they were easily fitted to rods and provided a little extra weight in order to help balance the long bamboo coarse and fly rods, plus a handy button to grasp while casting, or to rest on ones groin while playing a fish.

Malcolm
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-23-2019, 07:37 PM
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...rest on ones groin...

Malcolm
OUCH! That sounds painful.

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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-23-2019, 07:45 PM
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Ah..an inopportune word in this case. Button possibly 'resting' in the general top of leg area..which is where the end of a long double handed rod could end up…also useful for resting rod upright, while tying on a new fly, or against a tree during a break.
Here is one being fitted to bamboo; somewhat more involved, being of brass, blackwood and rubber.

Malcolm
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Last edited by MHC; 05-24-2019 at 06:42 AM.
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