Chasing Norwegian salmon in Mandal river - Spey Pages
 38Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Rate Thread Display Modes
post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-14-2018, 02:51 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
foreach71's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Poland
Posts: 417
Chasing Norwegian salmon in Mandal river

I was dreaming about this destination almost a year, since I read about it in the blog of fellow German fly fisherman. I meticulously gathered all information about this river and the area: weather reports, fishing reports from previous years week by week, river flow measurements, maps and locations of the pools and fishing beats. Everything needed I found in the Internet and from fellow fishermen, who already was of this river. Most of information was in Norwegian, Danish or German languages which I don't understand, but I used Google translator. The most comprehensive source is afiskeri.eu, site maintained by Danish fisherman Michael Olsen. Michael wrote almost encyclopedia about Mandal river, with maps, photos, video clips and descriptions of the bits. It's mostly in Danish only, but when you read it from mobile phone, it's automatically translated to your language.

To save time and get more productive, I hired a guide Ryan Marchese (anglerpilot.no). He tailored a guiding program for me, which included river observation tour, and suggested fishing tactics for each individual place. The goal was to show me as much as possible places in short time, so I can continue on my own for the rest of the days. I booked full day guiding (8 hours) , but we split it into two sessions, 4 hours each for convenience of both of us.
Ryan is British living in Norway many years, he's guiding both in saltwater and in the rivers. His other profession is paramedic in ambulance, and he also has certificate of water and mountain rescue. So I felt myself safe with such a guide.



Fishing in Norway requires two documents. First is national fishing fee (Fiskeravgift), kind of statewide license. it is required in all kinds of fishing, both in the sea and in the internal waters. It's paid once in a year for whole season, and it costs 260 kronas.
For fishing in the saltwater this is enough, no additional fees required.
Can be bought online here: Om fiskeravgiften

Fishing in rivers and lakes requires local license for particular body of water, river stretch or beat. It's issued by land owners and fishing associations, but usually sold through fishing shops and in other points of interest (hotels, campings, on some gas stations).
Most of licenses for Mandalselva and other Norwegian rivers can be bought also in the web shop:
https://www.scanatura.no/webshop/?lang=1

Licenses can be of many kinds: day card, week card, or season card. Week cards are cheaper than few day cards, so it make sense to buy a week card , even if you fishing for 4 days.

Third document required in salmon rivers only, is disinfection certificate. All fishing gear contacted with water, like rods, reels, fly lines, flies, boots, waders must be disinfected prior usage, if was previously used in another water source. It costs 50 kronas first time, but prolonging certificate is free for the rest of the season. This measure was established since few Norwegian rivers were infected with Gyrodactylis salaris - salmon parasite, which almost destroyed population of salmon in these rivers. Apart from disinfection, it's strongly prohibited to move live fish or other aquatic organisms between rivers, as it may contribute to distribution of G. salaris.

Mandalselva river is divided to zones 1, 2, 3, 4.

Zone 1 is out of interest for fly fishermen. It's wide, slow and deep part of the river, where it joins the sea, and it can be fished effectively only from boats. Trolling is the most usable method of catching salmon there.

Zone 2 is quite long, but it subdivided to small sub-zones, beats, or individial pools. They have their own names, like: Hauge A/B/C/D, Holmesland A/B/C, Finsdal A/B, etc.
Day cards for these beats allow limited number of anglers, from 2 to 4, depending on size of the beat. The beats can be booked from webshop scanatura.no, which shows which cards are available for which dates. Pre-season sales started in 15.02 each year, but the most popular beats sold out almost immediately, and it's hardly possible to get cards for it.
Especially popular are beats Holmesland P and Hauge C, because of big concentration of salmon in the pools below Haugefossen waterfall. But it's not as good for fly fishermen.
The other downside of these beats in zone 2 is that some of them are very small, so it's boring to run the same pool over and over the whole day. It's more popular between worm fishermen, who sitting on the chair on the river bank. Yes, they catching salmon on worms too!

Some parts of the Zone 2 are in the canyon, where access to the river is quite challenging: you have to descent to the water through steep slopes or rocks.





Zone 3 is quite a long stretch of the river, 20 or 25 kilometers, and it's single open zone. You get an unlimited license and can fish everywhere . This part is the most appealing to fly fishermen. It's good because if there's no signs of fish in the particular pool , or uncomfortable wind, or place is busy with other fishermen, you can drive to another place, still using the same day card or week card. River is very diverse in Zone 3. There's calm wide pools, fast shallow riffles, islands, gravel beaches, rapids and waterfalls. You can drive 5 km from previous place and it feels like you are on the different river.

Zone 3 can be busy during hot season time, and there can be a queue in the most popular pools. Usually crowded places are with easiest access, near the bridges or parking spots. But if you not afraid of walking, you can find some place to fish alone. Most people are lazy and don't walk too far from the place , where they parked a car :-)

The rules are: if someone already fishing particular run , don't go in front of other fishermen. Stay behind and move with others. These rules are written near parking spots in Norwegian and English. I hate "queue fishing" and prefer to fish alone, so I usually go to other places, if I see that queue thing , with few exceptions.

Also, I employed some tactics of "team fishing", being alone. Some beats are diverse, and one part requires a floating/intermediate line, but the other is more effectively fished with heavy sinking line. I loaded two rods with different lines, and arranged them on the pool. So I fish head of the run with floating or intermediate, and when I reach deep spot, I take another rod with sinking line, which stashed somewhere in the bushes. It saves a lot of time to change lines and re-tying flies. As my guide said - the more time fly spends in the water - the more chance to catch a salmon.





Zone 4 is also long and diverse stretch, 20 or 30 km long. It has plenty of space, and also fly-friendly. But, most of the salmon reach this zone in July, so it's more a late season game. Although, this year fish run started earlier, and first salmon were caught in Zone 4 already in the beginning of June. But still, there's not so much fish in June, so I didn't try .
Between Zone 3 and 4, near Laudal power station, there's another canyon stretch, with challenging bank access. Not so many fishermen dare to fish there. But further upstream, there are many fly-friendly stretches with nice gravel bars.



The cost of day card is 200 - 350 kronas (25- 38 euros), depending of the zone/beat, which is cheap for Scandinavian countries, and Europe in general. If you buy a week card for Zone 3, cost of one fishing day will be 275 kronas.
One fisherman can take and kill two salmon per day, but not more than 50 kg for the whole season. Once quota is exhausted, one can proceed to C&R fishing to the end of license period. All caught fish (killed or released), must be reported to the catch report system.
Reported data are license number, zone, fish species (salmon or sea trout), length, weight, taken/released. Catch reports are mandatory, if one didn't submit the report, he can be banned in the system and not able to buy licenses in the future.
Link for submitting catch reports: https://www.inatur.no/fangstrapportering

The catch registration system keeps statistics of caught salmon for few recent years.
It's a convenient tool for analysis, for example to check what week what the best and in which year largest number of salmon was caught.
Statistics can be observed here: select river Mandalselva
https://www.scanatura.no/fangstrapport/?type=0&lang=1

Whe I arrived to Mandal, conditions for the salmon fishing was poor. Hot weather, no rain for the last 3 weeks. Most rivers in the area were running very low. Some smaller rivers, like Audna and Lygna , were looking almost like a small stream with ankle-deep water. Salmon fishing is hardly possible in such water, smaller rivers are called spate rivers, and salmon starts to move in there only after decent rains, which raise the level up. But Mandalselva is one of the biggest rivers in Southern Norway, and it's regulated by hydropower station, so it's level fluctuations are not so big. Still, it was low, warm water, and not the best for fishing, because most of the salmon were sitting in deepest pools , under rapids, or other places where water is colder, and not willing to move.

First half of fishing day I spent with the guide. He showed me places and tactics in Zone 3.
Later in the day, I moved to place Hauge A in Zone 2, for which I booked day card.
I shared this beat with two German fly fishermen, who were living in the tent near the river.
The fish were jumping in the pool from time to time, but nobody of us had contact.



On the next day I met with the guide again. He showed me many places in Zone 3.
Then I continued to use other day card, Holmesland A. There's a lot of fish jumping, but still nothing. I stayed in the trailer/RV camping, which called Mjaland camping.
Camping - Mjåland GårdMjåland Gård
This is very convenient place for fishermen to stay, because it's located near the river and very close to good fishing spots in Zone 3.
In the camp I befriended with Lithuanian fishermen, two of them were speaking Russian. We had some beer and meet, and shared our unsuccessful stories. Nobody of us caught a salmon yet, at least in this week.



On the third day I fished all day alone, thoroughly running my flies through the pools, which Ryan showed me during guiding session. I fished beats in Fuglestveit, Finsadal bridge, near Laksehytter and Railway bridge. I've seen fish jumping, which is a good sign. At least, I was sure I cast my fly over the salmon holding water, rather than do it blindly and randomly.
I had two subtle takes in one pool, on my own "Byske spey" fly. It was like something shortly nipped on the fly. It can be a trout, but I want to believe it was a salmon.



Fourth day was Sunday. Due to weekend, there was too much people in Zone 3. Queue fishing, as I said before. So I concentrated in individual beat Hauge A , to which I bought day card earlier. This run is very good to fly fishing, but fish weren't cooperative. The guy from Lithuania, my neighbour in the camp, got a 5 strikes, and 5 fish lost. All in Holmesland/Hauge A beat. This place has largest number of salmon in it, that's why it is so popular and hard to get a day card for. I booked mine in February, and cards was sold in first 2-3 days of sale.



Day 5. I found the place with jumping salmon near the camping. It's very deep pool. I used sink3/sink4 line, and never snagged the bottom. I don't know how deep is it, maybe 2 or 3 meters. In the late evening, I had a two subtle nips on the fly. This is good sign. There's fish for sure, and i'm trying in right place.

During the day, a decent rain passed. I tried in other pools, zero contacts. Before get to sleep, I had a chat with fellow Czech fly fisherman. I was bitching about bad conditions and no active fish. He said: " I guess you using floating line , right? And other guys with zero catches doing the same? Try to do something different from the crowd. If tactic with floating/intermediate line didn't bring you to success in 5 days, there's one chance in a million casts that you'll get the fish. Forget about stereotypes that sinking lines are only for high water. ". I think he was right. It's time to improvise. If fish doesn't move for the fly, I need to move fly to the fish's nose. I already figured out it myself, because I used sink3/4 day before and I have two nips on that. His words convinced me believe more in what im' doing.
foreach71 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-14-2018, 02:52 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
foreach71's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Poland
Posts: 417


Day 6. In the morning, I continued on that pool, where I spotted fish yesterday. There's rocky island in the middle of the river. The fly I chose was small orange fly on brass tube, sort of snaelda. I threw my line very close to this rock on the other side, and let it swing across the pool. Suddenly, in the middle of the run, line stopped, and I felt like i'm snagged. It shouldnt be snag there, it's too deep. Whaat? It is there, the fish! My heart rate bursted to 190 bpm from adrenaline, I almost felt like a had a heart attack. Oh sh**, that's the salmon, big salmon! Calm down, don't do silly things. I've been waiting for you so long, I must, must land that fish. 5 zero days, and this is the chance which I wouldn't want to spoil.

I ran to the bank to overrun the fish from downstream side, to prevent it to runaway down the river. This is the worst scenario, but the pool was quite comfortable to land the fish.
I played it carefully, not allowing to jump. When salmon jump, they often come off the hook.
My Winston iiiTH 14' 8wt has enough power to steer fish where I want. I brought salmon to the shallow water, when fish stuck in the gravel, not able to escape to the deep water.
Yeees, here it is, my treasure, my precious, my first Norwegian salmon. I'm the winner!!!



It's happened, happy ending of my trip. I was dancing on the river bank, celebrating the victory.



Most of Norwegian fishermen take caught salmon home. C&R isn't a big thing in Scandinavian countries. This is allowed by rules. If I'd caught that fish in the first day, we'd grilled and eat in in the camping with friends. But it was the last day of my trip. I cannot carry frozen salmon in the airplane luggage, either I have no time to cooking it. So I decided to release that fish. The salmon swam away, but memories about chasing that fish will remain for all my life. For the catch report I measured it, and it was 81 cm. Approximate weight is 5.6 kg.
Later in the evening, I checked the report. There was only 8 salmon caught in the whole river for this particular day. Quite low number, so I was lucky.




After that, I didn't want to fish that much. I fished couple of hours more, and returned to the camping. I needed to dry out my waders and boots, before to pack it to the luggage.

First meet with Mandalselva was so exciting, so I want to return to this beautiful place once again.

Last edited by foreach71; 06-14-2018 at 03:18 PM.
foreach71 is offline  
post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-14-2018, 04:26 PM
Registered User
 
Rifflehitch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: all s rivers, but Sky is home.
Posts: 1,774
Nice trip thanks for sharing, maybe if they stoped killing them the numbers would be better!

Tight lines! B K Paige
"Occupy Skagit"
Wishin I was fishin the Sauk!!!
Rifflehitch is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-15-2018, 06:47 AM
Registered User
 
Brambo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: rivers and lakes
Posts: 315
"It's happened, happy ending of my trip. I was dancing on the river bank, celebrating the victory."

Pity you did not show us some pictures of that

Anyway, nice report. Thanx for sharing.

My best memories are not too old!!
Brambo is offline  
post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 06-15-2018, 07:24 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: western kentucky
Posts: 349
thank you for this detailed report..
henderson is offline  
post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-12-2018, 10:08 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: River Spey
Posts: 86
C/R, will never bring salmon stocks back up. You make that statement, have you scrutinized c/r. ???
In my opinion, it gives the authority a total escape from dealing with the real problems our fish have. To kill a fish for the pot never done the salmon fishing any harm. If we want number fish back in our rivers ww need concentrate on the smolt factory. We have the biggest fishing industry taking the bottom of the food chain to power fuel stations. We have farmers poising rivers with slurry and pesticides, we have fish farms.
Thats our problem, and if more folk took action in that direction we WILL see bigger runs.
To keep banging on about C/R and its more or less proven to make little or no difference, gives the powers to be an easy ride.
Who is going to take on the farmers union ? Who is going take on Fish Factory. ???
The system in Norway is probably the best system in place in the salmon world.
They do fish counts at different periods of the season. Should the numbers be down, then no kill is introduced. Should the numbers be ok, the kill policy carry on.
At end of the day, its a blood sport.
And can anyone agree, to release a bleeding fish only to die is good. Infact if we want give ammunition to the Anti fishing lobby. Supporting playing with the fish solely for our enjoyment , just don't sit right.
In my selfish way, the only good c/r has made, is perhaps make some rivers less crowded, and not wall to wall with meat fishers. But c/r was introduced to so called improve the salmon runs, and on that front it is a failure, and AT LEAST needs scrutinized. At 1 time I myself agreed with it, but the more and more I look into it, the only positive thing I see is it gives the Fish Farms, their best ever scenario. You want eat salmon, you buy from them.
billy fish and foreach71 like this.
scotsmac1 is offline  
post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-12-2018, 10:26 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: CT
Posts: 866
Great report, thanks!
DrBob is online now  
post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-12-2018, 03:23 PM
Registered User
 
ENSO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 421
Terrific report. Glad you had to work for that first salmon.

If this was a report on a sweet spot in North America (outside of Quebec), it would have had me cringing in my seat having been witness to a few angling gold rushes, sometimes complete with violence, over the decades. These recreational fisheries for Norwegian Atlantic salmon are intensively managed so there are no worries.

Foreach71: If is not too much trouble, could you please calculate your total transportation costs and your total fishing license costs. US dollars would be preferable but any currency will do.

°

Science is not common sense. Much of it is devoted to a systematic documentation of what we do not know and understand.
ENSO is offline  
post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-12-2018, 04:59 PM
Dedicated Fisherman
 
Hardyreels's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Alaska, Skwentna to Kodiak
Posts: 3,204
Send a message via Skype™ to Hardyreels
I must say that this was one of the best blow by blow trip reports I have read! Hat's off to you for taking so much time and effort in writing all of these details up and providing photographs to accompany the text.

I thoroughly enjoyed this.

Ard
DAnderson and foreach71 like this.
Hardyreels is offline  
post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-12-2018, 07:15 PM
Registered User
 
Halifaxangler67's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Labrador, New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, Andros
Posts: 249
Thank you for an incredibly detailed report...
Halifaxangler67 is offline  
post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-12-2018, 07:16 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: OR
Posts: 3,024
That was excellent. What a beautiful place. thank you.
SLSS is offline  
post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-14-2018, 09:32 PM
Registered User
 
fatman's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: kansas
Posts: 346
awesome...
fatman is offline  
post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-22-2018, 07:08 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
foreach71's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Poland
Posts: 417
Quote:
Originally Posted by scotsmac1 View Post
C/R, will never bring salmon stocks back up. You make that statement, have you scrutinized c/r. ???
I think Mandalselva stocks are pretty good, because even with many fish taken for dinner, the population is self-sustained, and it is on 8-9th place in rank of most productive Norwegian salmon rivers. But it wasn't all the time . 20 years ago or more, salmon population was wiped out by acid rain. After that disaster, water acidity level was fixed by feeding limestone, and river re-stocked by salmon cultivated in hatchery. in 2013 hatchery was closed, as fish population reached numbers enough for natural spawning
ENSO likes this.
foreach71 is offline  
post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-23-2018, 09:40 AM
Registered User
 
ENSO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 421
If there is any rigorous evidence suggesting that catch and release promotes wild Atlantic salmon abundance, please share.

In fact, if any of you have any references to rigorous studies that concluded that catch and release positively impacts abundance of any wild anadromous salmonids, please share!!!

For steelhead, catch and release appears to increase angler catch via recycled steelhead but otherwise appears to have zero impact on abundance just as modest harvest appears to have zero impact on abundance.

°

Science is not common sense. Much of it is devoted to a systematic documentation of what we do not know and understand.
ENSO is offline  
post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 07-23-2018, 05:49 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
foreach71's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Poland
Posts: 417
Quote:
Originally Posted by ENSO View Post
Foreach71: If is not too much trouble, could you please calculate your total transportation costs and your total fishing license costs. US dollars would be preferable but any currency will do.
Here's some maths
disclaimer: Norway is very expensive country: worse is only Iceland

airline ticket: ~111 USD (it was the least expensive part)

rented car (7 days), it was a Nissan Quashqai automatic with navigation, for price of small car - free upgrade from SiXT ~300 USD
car rental agency prepaid services (rent a transponder, service charge) 349 NOK ~ 49 USD
fuel(gas) - 916 NOK ~ 111 USD (driven distance 790 km - 490 miles)
so it's about 460 USD only for car

accomodation (rented trailer in trailer park, 7 days)
2838 NOK - 346 USD

fishing license:
zone 2/Holmesland A 320 NOK/day (39 USD)
zone 2/Hauge A - 270 NOK/day (39 USD)
zone 3/whole zone - 1925 NOK (235 USD) week card for 7 days , so it's 270 NOK per day (but 320 for separate day card)

Grocery store ~ 80 NOK per day (11-12 USD)

Car rental is the most expensive part of the trip... but it's needed to get more water access.
foreach71 is offline  
Reply

Tags
atlantic salmon , double hand , fishing report , fishing trip

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Spey Pages forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Linear Mode Linear Mode
Rate This Thread:



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Norwegian Salmon Fishing Advice Needed steelhd32 Destinations 8 07-16-2013 09:28 AM
Norwegian Salmon ChrisAK General 0 05-29-2006 08:30 PM
Norwegian spey fly rods &reels Al Williams Rods 1 03-07-2002 04:26 AM
A couple of Norwegian rivers! ISC Archives ISC Archives 0 02-01-2002 11:23 AM

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome