Snap T snafus: running line wrapping around handle/ reel - Spey Pages
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 08:44 PM Thread Starter
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Question Snap T snafus: running line wrapping around handle/ reel

I'm still relatively new to the spey game, but in 2018 my casting went in two directions. I finally figured out the Double Spey when I started sweeping with more pizzazz, with the extra momentum creating a proper D-Loop that I can use to fully load the forward cast.

On the other hand, my Snap T went completely to hell. I formerly had no problems with this cast, but last fall I started getting the running line looped around either reel or the handle when I made the forward cast. I cast left hand-up, and this happened on both river right (where I typically use the Snap T) and river left. I shifted where I hold the loops from the top hand to the bottom hand, but that didn't improve things.

I'm thinking that I must be placing the anchor too close or some other basic flaw, but I'd love to hear from the experts. Wearing a tangle of Gripshooter gets old really fast.

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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-15-2019, 07:13 AM
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Grimping line using bottom hand index, middle or both fingers and routing line below the reel should shoot line without tangling to reel.

Esa
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-15-2019, 05:19 PM
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A close anchor on a snap T is a good anchor.

I've found that when my running line fouls it's mainly for 1 of 2 reasons... 1) my pause before the sweep is too long or 2) my sweep is too low and drift is too abrupt (which also leads to a tailing loop unless I correct it on the forward stroke by aiming for the moon). Just my experience, anyway.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-15-2019, 09:11 PM
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Two loops of equal length, held in the pinkie and ring fingers of my bottom hand, works best for me in preventing tangles and reel/guide wraps. Still happens occasionally, but they're easy enough to fix during the mend and step.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-16-2019, 01:00 AM
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Make your movements as smooth and slowly and with just enough power to get the job done. I see a lot of folks with way too much "snap" in their snap tee, causing line rebound in both their anchor and their running line. If the movements are smooth and properly powered, there's less chance of the running line rebounding and getting up into the handle area.

Unless there's wind.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-16-2019, 10:47 AM
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running line snafus

Much truth in all these posts. Here are a few ideas, none of which are original with me, by the way. Lots of loops lead to lots of problems. I commonly cast about 11 healthy strips. I hold a loop of five strips and one of four with my bottom hand, and let two loops hang between my bottom hand and my top hand. Having the loops in the water of slightly unequal length, and the first one longer than the second, seems to help with fouling.If is also important to LOOK at the loops in the water before you fire up the cast. If they are not twisted and are reasonably separated, that helps a lot. If the loop between your bottom and top hands is too small, that is dangerous, as you are setting the whole deal up too close to the reel. I have not noticed a great deal of difference in fouling as a result of which fingers of the bottom hand I use to hold the loops, but for me the index finger seems as good as any. It at least has the advantage of having no fingers "above" it, right?

Some people would note at this point that if you were casting traditional longer lines you would not be dealing with all this running line. I know nothing about casting those types of lines. My comments are mostly relative to skagit heads and sink tips, etc.

I have a lot more trouble with fouling when it is very cold, or when it is windy. When it is cold, my fingers are slow, and I don't think I release the loops as cleanly as when I can actually FEEL my fingers..... Watching video of good casters, you can see that they release their loops very cleanly, and that there is a very aggressive straightening of the fingers, not just sort of casually letting go. When it is windy there are going to be problems, all of which will be slightly less if you can keep all parts of the cast closer to the water. If you do a big sweep with a big lift at the end in the wind, it puts all that running line in the zone.

I suppose some running lines are more prone to fouling than others, but I am not going to go there, as there are already a lot of opinions on that.

In my own experience, I have experienced a slow but steady decrease in tangling and such as I have continued to practice. Practice makes a big difference in all aspects of spey casting, including this one! Also, I have been through "phases" with each cast. One week one is a mess and another good; the next it can switch. All of that gradually evens out with lots of practice and a few good instructors.

One thing to keep in mind is that spey casting is endlessly variable. Water velocity, how deep you are wading, the length of your head/sink tip/leader, and the size of your fly all contribute to a different equation for literally every cast. It is much more complicated than overhead casting. Practicing and fishing in varying water conditions with varying heads/tips/leaders/flies will gradually help you understand how all these variables work into the mix, and what you need to do in each situation to get the tinsel to the tuna. It is an infuriating but fascinating art. People tell me it is a lot like golf, which makes me grateful I do not play...

Last, if you are stuck, get out on the water with a good caster, paid or otherwise. They may be able to spot some things. Good luck!
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-16-2019, 04:26 PM
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I had the same problem the first season I started, why???? What was I doing wrong???? Since getting to be a better caster, the problem has gone away. Why?????
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-16-2019, 06:29 PM
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This is a guess, but if you cup the lower grip and turn the reel handle downwards during or at the end of your forward stroke, I don't think there'd be anything for the running line to catch on.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-16-2019, 08:41 PM
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For the line retrieve I loop the running line onto my free bottom hand in descending size loops and for the forward cast I bring both the line from the reel and the line from the loops over the bottom of the reel onto the bottom grip. At the rod stop and line shoot I release the loops from my fingers like a spinning reel releases its line for a cast. You can also allow the line to shoot through a hooked or circle shaped finger of your top hand.
Just a suggestion....
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-16-2019, 09:40 PM Thread Starter
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Smile Plenty of good advice. Thanks.

Lots to think about in the suggestions above. I typically form loops after 5, 4 and 3 strips and then the rest (not a lot) of the running line stays in the water. I "fold" the loops (alternate directions) to reduce tangles.

I suspect SSL's suggestion to use less power, plus better line/loop management will help a lot. I've printed out the entire thread and will take it to the water to work out the kinks.

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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-27-2019, 01:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bender View Post
Grimping line using bottom hand index, middle or both fingers and routing line below the reel should shoot line without tangling to reel.

Esa
this has been a game changer for me. Still 'stuck' in the old rut of routing line through the top hand but the lower hand works as a safety-catch on the occasion that I loose grip on the top hand.
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-27-2019, 01:19 PM
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Yes and together with glued rubber strip even thin mono shooting line does not slip.

I have tried to understand where the better timing I now seem to achieve using bottom hand comes? Perhaps I was able to "teach" it better? Or maybe top hand is busier in the end and my line release came too late and inconsistent? Or inconsistency was begause I had to grimp the line harder? Nevertheless I did eventually change.


Esa
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-27-2019, 08:51 PM
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You may be turning the reel sideways. Leave it vertical.
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