Scandi 3d - Spey Pages
  • 1 Post By LyNcH
  • 3 Post By YORKIE
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  • 2 Post By coalbe
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-08-2018, 01:23 AM Thread Starter
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Scandi 3d

I have a Burkheimer 8134-4. I want to try for winter steelhead with a Scandi Line. Seems like the scandi 3D would allow me to get the fly down. I have a cataraft and bring a few pre rigged rods. My Death Star has a Fist Line with T14. My 8119 TCX has a floating Skagit head with 5/5 mow tip. The goal was to have a rig for those more “traditional” runs with ample back cast room. The 3’s come in different density combinations. Any suggestions? Poly leaders? Which polyleader? This is fun!
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-08-2018, 03:29 AM
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I rig mine with a Nextcast WA45 7/8 or a Nextcast Steelheadfinder FI 550. The latter functions like a 3D Scandi that you are seeking.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-08-2018, 11:22 AM
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I bought a Rio Scandi 3d, Float/1IPS/2IPS, 480grain for my Sage Igniter 7126. I used 10' Airflo Polyleaders in 2.6 and 3.9IPS. They worked great, everything swung nice and smooth through the current, flies fished at proper depth. Happy I made the 3d purchase. Purchased a SkagitMAx Gamechanger in Float/1IPS/2IPS/3IPS and was equally pleased using t-11.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-08-2018, 05:01 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies. I guess I am asking which, given the fact I will have my deep dredging and narrow bucket situations with the aforementioned skagit arsenal, which 3D would be best for those more classic runs (2-6' deep, walking speed or a tad faster) fishing more traditional lighter flies.
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-09-2018, 10:38 AM
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Eckman,the beauty of what you call a 'Scandi" 3D line and a poly tip set up is its flexibility.Changing to a heavier poly. will enable you to fish deeper with the same line.All you need to remember is you can all ways go deeper, but never shallower with the same line.So,in that case staring with the right line in the first place seems the sensible thing to do.As ever this will always depend on water levels and the speed/depth of the current.
In effect you need a base or default setting to start off with.If you can give any clues as to present line sinking rates, thats a great way to start.Judging by your 50/50 Mow tip or use of T14 I'd suggest a Hover/Inty/3 coupled to a poly of 10ft will be a good way to start.Buying a FULL set of 10ft Airflo polys. is recommended and for that line the 3.9 tips Brown Airflo poly will match up(sink rate wise!) just fine coupled to say 6ft of tippet to your flee, if you need to get a bit deeper, replace with either of the heavier polys to suit!.If you need to be shallower then you'll need a slower line like the Float/Hover/Inty.,again pick a poly to suit conditions.
Don't feel stuck to 3D lines, the 2D style will work just as well if not better as its easier to work out the sink rates a lot better(at first any way),I prefer the 2d lines for my dedicated sunk line work as I use Guideline heads and they are made by Airflo and the sink rates match the Airflo polys. perfectly and its a system I have great confidence in.
Oh and either system,2D or 3D with a poly. will cast like a rocket very very well indeed.
Enjoy,cast on dude,Yorkie.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-09-2018, 12:18 PM
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CFB 8134-4 can handle 3D line of the same taper in rather wide grain window. If you use more pure underhand cast and like faster tempo Rio 480 gr F-H-I ( thy call it F-H-S2) but it is really fast intermediate or I-F-S3 ( 480gr) is great. The heads are closer to 485-490 gr and 35 long. On F-H-I or I-H-S3 fluorcarbon leader which sink around 1.5/sec is a great combination.

With fluorocarbon material you can use shorter leader like 9-10 ,

but when casting a larger flies, as short as 6.5 will yield a quite decent cast. Also with heavier flies ( NOT DEAD RAT!!!) like on the photo, in 3 range and total weigh 0.8 gram, excluding trailing hook like Owner size 1 ( 0.3 gram weigh), either of 480 gr Rio head will deliver a fly with authority.

When Using H-I-S3, you can even use 3 foot strong tippet 20 lb fluoro Seaguar , which has the real diameter equal to 15 lb Maxima.

It is very easy to build your own core Fluoro leader finished with a small Krefty loop and just add 30-35 tippet with a fly.

If you want more authority, use Nexcast SF45.

NC SF45 head of 550 gr plus 80 gr tip is way to heavy for CFB 8134-4, unless you want to feel it as a Skagit Head.

All SF45 have the same taper section ( the entire Int. and the front floating), and the only difference is leveled rear belly. For that reason the best is to start with 510 gr body, add 10 80 gr tip like Rio Type 3 or 6. If the set up feels to heavy, just prune the head form the back in 6 inch increments, tie a temporary mono loop and test it with the real fly.
Once you are generally satisfy, weld to the head polyurethane loop form 50 lb Airflo RL or old Airflo Delta ( the best) and fish for few days before trying to cut it more.

Another nice combination is to use Rio Intermediate Scandi body 400 gr with Type 3 or 6 , 15; tip wt.8 ( 108 gr). If it is to long for you , cut the tip. I prefer to cut the tip from the back to preserve 3 foot front taper .
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-10-2018, 12:05 AM
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If it were me I'd skip the Rio stuff and fish the SA UST short heads. I'd fish the F/S3, and F/S5 heads and call it good. Forget the poly-leader stuff, poly leaders are useless on any fly tied on a shank or tube. Fish a 6-9 foot mono or fluoro leader. Fish the S3 head in riffles, and tail-outs. Fish the S5 head in the heads and bodies of those classic gravel bar runs. At 32.5' those heads a touch short for that rod, but that 6-9' leader and/or extra overhang should help alleviate blown anchor problems.
I hope this helped.
Good luck.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-10-2018, 12:49 AM
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I very much like the longer SA UST 3D and usually use 3-4 foot mono leader. Works great. Have no need for Skagit heads, just use a denser configuration to get deeper.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-11-2018, 07:27 PM
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Seems I may be alone in liking multi-density Scandi lines. The one I use most of the winter is an S1/S2 line. With this rig I can fish the rips, well enough, and swing to the dangle in most places. If you want a 3D, I might suggest a F or H/S1/S2. I think lighter is better because you could fish to the dangle. It is a bit tougher to toss your bigger flies with a Scandi, but if you really want to bang the rocks, you've always got that Skagit rig in the boat.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-15-2018, 11:21 PM Thread Starter
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I spoke with a representative from Rio today. I explained what I was looking for and he suggested that I stick with my floating scandi line And just use fast and super fast sinking poly leaders. I will probably just give this a try since I am targeting shallower water. With my 13’4” rod would I be better off with the 14 foot or the 10 foot ploy leaders?
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-16-2018, 12:59 AM
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I have the Rio 3D line in H/I/S3 and I absolutely love it. I use around 4 to 5 feet of maxima green as a leader/tippet since the rear part of the head is virtually an anchor already. That head should be good for 2 to 5 feet in depth; depending on water speed, casting direction, and mending.

I'm going to pull the trigger on another 3D line, their I/S3/S5, which should cover depths of 4 to 10 feet.

I go with a shorter leader on these heads as I dont want the length of the leader to change the depth of my fly. I worry that a longer leader will let the fly ride higher than the lowest part of the head. I'm also not using weighted flys.
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-17-2018, 10:02 AM
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Regarding "those more traditional runs"

For steelhead, I seem to use lines that end in S1 or S2 the most. With these lines I like to use leaders from 9’-15’. Usually my leader system is constructed out of a short polyleader and flourocarbon. This is not much different then what was mentioned above, however I think you should consider the length of the scandi line carefully. Allot of 3D lines for an 8wt average 36-38’ feet long, add an average leader length of 12’ and now you are 50’ to the fly. With a couple of strips of line, this configuration is really best suited for what I would call medium to large river.

If the rivers you fish are small to medium size you may want to consider a compact scandi with a length around 31-33 (or shorter). They will be easier to dig out and possibly easier to cast if you have not used 3Ds before. You may also be able to use them on your switch rods.
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-14-2019, 09:29 PM
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The Rio Gamechanger F/H/I casts great for me, and I'm still a mediocre caster at best. The swings are truly sweet. We need a little more water here in Ohio for me to use it at the moment.

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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-14-2019, 10:05 PM
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Old thread ... but my thoughts after this years season, I still like my Guideline 3D line (used on a Meiser 136 68 6 piece and Burkheimer 7134). If I am just floating, I will use a NC Winter Authority (yes, I can change the tips), but if I am looking for depth, I move to Guideline 3D.

If the fly is higher in the water column, the leader gets longer, think Polyleader 10', which Bolen expressed above. As the fly goes deeper, I will move to a 3-6' mono leader (12# Maxima or 15# Fluoro Seaquar Blue).

If I feel I need a longer line, I do add RIO Replacement Tip, 10' 85gr, 15' 84grm and 15' 109gr.
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-15-2019, 05:24 AM
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Hello.. Id like to turn your attention to the RIO Scandi Short/Scandi VersiTip system. In conjunction with appropriate Versileaders you can combine almost anything. If you prefer a heavy load on your rod, this is spot on. Heads are very rearheavy, giving this feeling. Yes, I have some of the other lines mentioned here, not the SA UST , and they are fine but the RIO system is more complete. And I like the feeling. And they are nonstretch. Yours borano20
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