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Reel Cleaning

6K views 53 replies 17 participants last post by  bolen 
#1 ·
We all grease the inner mechanisms of our reels. My question is what do some of you use to remove the grease. Grease is good as it, obviously, lubricates the mech. It also collects dust, dirt, and worn metals and Im thinking I need to get this cleaned out without hurting the finish so I can reapply grease. What do you guys use?
 
#2 ·
This year I used Non-Chlorinated-Brake-Cleaner. Cuts dirt and grease nicely and evaporates readily. Wipe everything down and apply the grease of your choice.

Note: the non-chlorinated is supposed to be better for you and the environment.

Dan
 
#3 ·
On the Classic Fly Rod Forum there are a number of threads on cleaning and lubricating reels. Below is a link to one of the moderators on the forum and a thread describing how he cleans his reels, which I have used and have had good success. This is often used on old reels that people have purchased where nothing has been done on the reel in quite some time.

At the end of every season I usually take my reels apart and wipe down and clean the inside as best I can using a cloth rag and q-tips. I then regrease or reoil and reassemble wiping down the outside. I will use Boshield on the outside of some of my older Hardy Perfect, etc type reels.

The Classic Fly Rod Forum ? Cleaning Reels
 
#9 ·
Hi John
I got wind of Boeshield from Bulldog on Clarks in another cleaning post when he used it to remove built up encrusted grease and rust from a reel (and subsequently protect) he was restoring. It took me ages to finally get some as it was considered a hazardous product but the Bike fraternity (as well as boating/marine) started importing it so it's relatively easy to obtain here now. I put it on the insides of reels as well to prevent oxidation in cases of moisture from getting inside the reel from fishing or dunking.
Cheers
Steve
 
#5 ·
I normally just wipe for regular maintenance, but soaking in a dilute bath of vinegar (1:4 ???) for a certain time has worked for reels I have gotten on eBay that looked like they were put away covered in fish guts three decades before - with old line literally rotting off them. The acid helps a bit for minor rust and soiling, and to de-lubricate. I used instructions and recipes for this that are online in several places, and this seems to be what some collectors like to use first when restoring old reels. Again, it think this would be for major cleaning, not necessarily maintenance. Depending on the reel, its age, construction and value I would be very careful about using random solvents - even with vinegar as per the advice of the experts. Like you implied above, some things that may not harm the metal may discolor or otherwise damage the finish, at least on old reels with more "primitive" finishes. At any rate the vinegar solution, a little warmth and time seem to work pretty well with no bad effect on some old, non-anodized reels I used it on.

The link john8 provided if not the actual one I used, looks very good.
 
#7 ·
My travel kit consists of a Duchess, Battenkill, Steelhead, and a Sea Run. A pretty modern blue collar collection and not valuable by any means but I don’t want to puke up the finish. I’ll try the vinegar and test out the brake cleaner when I get home on an out of service Battenkill.
 
#8 ·
Just use soap and warm water. Brake cleaner I would advise against on any reel for fear of stripping the finish. I would also advise against even a dilute vinegar bath as well for the same reason. A soft toothbrush in the soap solution, wipe down with a clean rag and a q-tip and reapply your grease and oil and you're good to go.
 
#11 ·
The first post in the link John8 provided has a pretty nice summary of the methods and soak times for using the vinegar solutions on various types of finish and metals as well as a few specific cases where you don’t want to use it. I think obviously dilute soap and water is what you use always if it is enough. That is actually the second step covered there. Like I said above, I very much got the impression from these threads when I did my original “read-up” that the vinegar solution is more for a restoration type scenario, or where you have mineral type deposits. I agree with “flytie” it might be overkill if you are just trying to replace the lubrication. I think it might not matter in many cases what you use but only you can judge the “risk”. I know it can be a cliche “guy thing” to use overkill, but if it is an old and/or expensive one that has already lived longer than you maybe it has earned the gentle touch. :)
 
#12 ·
I agree with Botsari and what others have stated. For the most part reel cleaning consists of just wiping the reel with a rag and possible Q-tip to get to hard to reach spots then regrease and reoil. If the reel has been sitting for awhile etc then warm soapy bath, then lubricate. If the reel is in bad shape where the grease has become hard and there is oxidation, etc then diluted vinegar bath or warm soapy bath depending on condition and finish, etc. I would always start with just warm water and soap as that will not mess up any finish, etc.
 
#13 ·
"I would always start with just warm water and soap as that will not mess up any finish, etc."

A warm water and soap won't dissolved residual hydrocarbon oil or grease. These lubricants are very hydrophobic and completely insoluble in water.

Warm water with soap ( slightly basic) will remove human grease, cooking grease which have a different chemical structure then hydrocarbon oil/grease.

However, a light petroleum solvent ( even gasoline) won't damage any finish and very well dissolve the lubricants. So, use gloves, sprinkle a little gasoline on a piece of fabric or paper towel and wipe oil/grease from reel's parts. Repeat the process twice.

Also pure isopropyl alcohol ( at least 95% +) will dissolve very well hydrocarbon lubricants without any damage to aluminum or coating. However only 70% IPA ( known are rubbing alcohol) won't dissolve the lubricants very effectively.

Also let's keep in mind that vinegar active component is acetic acid ( pH=4). At this pH, aluminum very, very slowly reacts with acetic acid. The damage to unfinished Aluminum will be completely negligible, but if there is a minor chipping in coating, over the time this minor scratch in coating may result in extending pealing.
 
#14 ·
Perhaps a pro will set me straight, but I think grease is out of place in most reels, with the exception of the gear in gear/pawl reels. Light machine oil is better for the reel spindle and bearings. I have used both light grease and light machine oil on my reels and much prefer the oil. Simply put, grease seems to attract dirt and is harder to clean. On the other hand, grease would be more protective in the salt and were I a saltwater angler, I might change my tune.
 
#15 ·
If all we're talking about is re-greasing our C&P reels which I believe what the OP listed (Duchess, Battenkill, and Leland Searun and Steelhead)....then a warm soap and water bath will soften up old grease enough to break it free with a soft bristle tooth brush, wipe it clean with a cotton cloth and dig out any tricky spots with a q-tip and a wooden toothpick. The soap and water bath will also help flush out any dirt. Use some canned air to get out grease/water/dirt from any hidden spots.

Once the reel has dried and is clean of old grease. .... Spray and wipe in a coating of Boeshield to reel internal and external surfaces. Boeshield will both lubricate and provide a micro layer of protection against oxidation. Add a light coating of grease with a tooth pick to the pawl and gear. To the spindle and handle a drop of oil. That's it.

Many home mechanics have used regular old dish soap to clean their hands off after a day in the garage. Is it the best? No.....but it is a mild alternative. Gas or diesel or alcohol or dilute acid baths can do serious damage to the finishes on a reel. I would only say to do it maybe tested on a small area if you're saving/restoring a reel that was rode hard and left in grandpa's shed the last 50 years. Some paint jobs from years gone by will dissolve like older Medalists and Heddon Imperials among others. I learned this the hard way.

I use Quantum Hot Sauce or a synthetic Aluminum complex grease and Reel-X oil. Some might argue Hardy reels only came oiled for decades and all that is needed. There are pros and cons to using grease and oil. Grease helps the lubricant stay where you want it and resists water washout. A light oil won't do this. Grease does indeed catch dirt particles (so does oil).... and many greases won't work well in very cold conditions. That's why one should clean them annually or after hard usage and choose lubricants that have been tested under harsh environments.

New disc drag reels with sealed bearings......reapplying lubrication to the bearing assemblies is not required. Older ones with non-sealed bearing......the same bath, cleaning and re-greasing procedure is prudent. But requires disassembly and I would venture a guess is rarely done. This is why I stick to C&P reels....they're easy to maintain and will last well past my lifetime if I take care of them.

Good luck to you.......
 
#17 ·
Many home mechanics have used regular old dish soap to clean their hands off after a day in the garage.

When mechanic use soap, he is removing human grease ( 1st layer to skin ) together with hydrocarbon grease on the top . As I said hydrocarbon green is not soluble in water with detergent!!!!!!!!!

Reel finish is as resistant as coating on cars. If acc. to you gasoline would damage finish, coating on cars near tank intake where you add gasoline should be also damage, as often few droplets of gasoline splash on the coating near tank intake.

Pure hydrocarbon solvents ( gasoline is comprised of many longer chain hydrocarbons) do not dissolve coating. You need solvents like toluene, ethyl acetate or acetone.

There is noting wrong to clean reel with water/detergent, but idea that water/soap removes well hydrocarbon oil/grease from metal surface , which is different than human skin, is insane.
 
#20 ·
Lead or tin is a very soft metal, and when you wipe it with your finger, clean tissue ( cotton, symthetic,) , etc. it will leave dark residue. Even when tin or lead surface is oxidized to oxide ( dark color ) , that oxide layer is still on very soft metal layer. Take lead tape and wipe it with paper towel to see dark residue of lead/lead oxide on the towel.

Lead metal is NOT soluble in oil, any grease , wax etc.
 
#19 ·
If you need to clean your reels with gasoline....you're over greasing them and might want to change ones greasing techniques.

Not all reel finishes are created equal. Modern anodization...can handle it no problem. But finishes have changed significantly in the past 100 years and there is no broad stroke approach.

I've read numerous reel cleaning threads on the Clarks Forum, Fiberglass Flyrodder Forum and ORCA.....cleaning them with gas isn't mentioned. Whatever you do....testing any reel with an unknown finish on a small hidden surface first would be prudent if you're going to explore using solvents other than water.

If you use gas.....don't smoke a stogie. I think we can agree on that?

Stay safe all.
 
#23 ·
If you need to clean your reels with gasoline....you're over greasing them and might want to change ones greasing techniques.

Not all reel finishes are created equal. Modern anodization...can handle it no problem. But finishes have changed significantly in the past 100 years and there is no broad stroke approach I've read numerous reel cleaning threads on the Clarks Forum, Fiberglass Flyrodder Forum and ORCA.....cleaning them with gas isn't mentioned. Whatever you do....testing any reel with an unknown finish on a small hidden surface first would be prudent if you're going to explore using solvents other
than water. If you use gas.....don't smoke a stogie. I think we can agree on that?

Stay safe all.
I found a broken up Sea Run under the back seat of my work truck last night so I had something to experiment with this morning at the shop. I used some Cherry Bomb hand cleaner and a tooth brush and it worked nicely. I’m sure there is petroleum in it. No damage to the finish and now the reel smells like cherries. As far as gas and diesel I wouldn’t use either unless I had a gas or diesel powered reel.
 
#21 ·
flytie09,

I am organic synthetic/material chemist and look as certain things differently...... Sure why anyone wold recommend gas if most people go to store and buy light petroleum solvent ......
But both have the same properties: dissolve hydrocarbon lubricants and are very flammable.
Pure isopropyl alcohol or 70% ( rubbing alcohol) we use this days for Covid-19 will catch fire.
 
#22 ·
Vintage reel "Leaded Finishes" are not lead. It is a misnomer. Lead finishes are a two part process where they are acid bronzed and then rubbed with multiple layers of stove black (graphite).

The Classic Fly Rod Forum ? Lead Finish on reels?

I'm going to leave the discussion alone now. I've made my point. If you want to use alternative methods to clean your reels, go for it.

I appreciate your viewpoint bolen. I have a Chemical Engineering degree, have worked in Maintenance Reliability focused in lubrication for the past decade and have cleaned and lubricated hundreds of reels. Not one of them have I had to use gas.
 
#27 ·
The rod and reel were dropped off of a bridge. We were walking across a bridge having a beer after fishing and stopping on the bridge mid span to look into the water, as we are all prone to do. The rod was rested on the bridge rail with reel outward resting on the cork in a balanced (?) state. Javier took his hand off of the rod and it slipped away. Maybe a fifty foot fall. The rod landed on the bottom cork, broke the reel seat and the reel took a bad hit. The rest of the rod was in perfect condition and the reel seat and bottom cork was totally repairable. If Im not mistaken I think the rod was a Beulah Platinum 12'6" 6 wt. Anyway, the reel was stuffed under the back seat of the truck and it is not (really) repairable. I was thinking since Im in the shop this week we might try to heat the reel up and straighten it out. :chuckle:
 
#25 ·
Indeed lead on reels is not…lead, it is graphite brushed on reels as a paste, Hardy's used Zebra Paste for their reels, same as used for blackening stoves at the time. "Lead' in pencils is not lead either, it being graphite mixed with clay to give the various hardness of pencils.

It is the carrier in the paste holding the graphite on reels which is easily dissolved. Years ago I researched the subject in depth and spoke to chemists, metalurgists and even cast iron stove restorerers, along with the esteemed Hardy authority John Drewett, whom assisted early on. I like to think that I know a little about the subject.

For what its worth, I am 'Oddsnrods' on Clarks forum, the link which was posted here, three posts prior, where I have contributed many posts on the subject.

Talking about cleaning reels, I am trying to pluck up the courage to somehow, clean and lubricate one of Hardy's tiny little baitcast reels, the Jock Scott, not an exactly common reel, this model from about 1953.

Malcolm
 

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#28 ·
Talking about cleaning reels, I am trying to pluck up the courage to somehow, clean and lubricate one of Hardy's tiny little baitcast reels, the Jock Scott, not an exactly common reel, this model from about 1953.

Malcolm
Malcolm that is a beautiful little reel!
In a previous fishing life I used little baitcasters in East Australian creeks and estuaries. My first baitcaster was a gift from my oldest brother in Toronto who used to fish for bass, walleye etc, a Shakespeare President II, my pride and joy. I used to love taking it apart and greasing the whole thing down again at end of season. I was amazed when I started fly fishing in England at the simplicity of fly reels.
I just googled up that reel, and found an exquisite example of reel and matching rod in what looked like mint condition, with an equally amazing price tag!
Enjoy the ride!
Cheers,
Steve
 
#33 ·
I use WD-40 to degrease and clean figuring that like dissolves like.

After that I wipe down with microfiber and use boeshield for lube- been using the T-9 bike chain lube and love it.
Exactly.

The same way light petroleum liquid, like petroleum spirit or petroleum ether ( it consist of hydrocarbons and does not contain oxygen like a typical either). Gasoline also consist of mixture of hydrocarbon of different length/boiling point and cleans/removes greases beautifully.

All above liquids including W-40 do NOT damage car paint, coating on fly reels etc.
 
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