How do I make a loop in a shooting line? - Spey Pages
 
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-20-2008, 11:44 PM Thread Starter
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How do I make a loop in a shooting line?

Hey guys...

I have some of the highly regarded Powerflex core Shooting Line (.030 in.). I want to use it with my new Compact Skagit head.

Neither end of the Powerflex has a loop. I can easily attach the rear end to my backing with an Albright Knot. However, I am unsure how to attach the front end to my (looped) Skagit head.

How do you recommend doing that?

Should I attach a braided nylon loop to the Powerflex? Should I whip tie a loop into the Powerflex using wrapping thread?

Just how do you guys recommend I make a loop in the front of the running line?

Thanks for the help.

I'm eager to get this combo in the water....

Keith

Last edited by moethedog; 11-21-2008 at 09:35 AM.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-21-2008, 12:39 AM
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Those are two good methods. Others are to fuse it using the methods discussed in another thread currently running on Speyclave. However, I just form my loop the size I want and tie two nail knots fairly close together to secure it. I put a tiny drop of Duro superglue on each knot and then coat the whole thing with about three thin layers of Pliobond. Haven't had one fail yet including some fairly big fish in saltwater.
post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-21-2008, 01:08 AM Thread Starter
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JR.....

Do you use that on thin shooting line, too.....???

What do you use to tie the nail knots?

Keith
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-21-2008, 05:34 AM
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Keith ,

1. Fold over the running line to make your desired loop size .
2. Affix the loop using two nail knots 1/4" apart . I use #30 PowerPro braid . It's the diameter of #6 Maxima and compacts to a wee-little knot .
3. Wrap both nail knots using kevlar thread and whip finish .
4. Finish with 2 thin coats of Aqua Flex (available from RedShed) for a flexible , durable finish .

I use this method for making loops for line/leader connections too . Haven't had one fail yet .


Mike

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-21-2008, 10:10 AM
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The methods described will work. Another method is described somewhere, if I remember correctly, on Dan Blanton's website.

Randy
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-21-2008, 10:14 AM
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Lefty's non slip

You can tie a short 'Lefty's non-slip loop' by going in through the rear loop of your head, underneath & around the tail/body of the head then back out the rear loop and finish the knot. I like to snug it tight with something before seating it into the rear loop of the head. This gives you the correct handshake connection with a compact loop. If you want to run a different head just clip the knot loose and retie only losing a minor amount of material.

Edit: Unsure why but I totally read that as Slickshooter rather than Powerflex. I also utilise the doubled over nail knotted method with a std running line.

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Last edited by shotgunner; 11-21-2008 at 05:29 PM. Reason: weak kneed excuse
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-21-2008, 12:08 PM
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Whatever method you use, make the loop big enough to fit your entire coiled head through--saves a lot of time!
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-21-2008, 04:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moethedog View Post
JR.....

Do you use that on thin shooting line, too.....???

What do you use to tie the nail knots?

Keith
I use this method on all flyline type running lines. I use 8lb co-polymer mono for the knots. I understand the advantages of GSP, but I don't trust knots tied in GSP and since I've never had a failure using my method I've never been tempted to switch.
post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-22-2008, 08:07 PM
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ditto with JR

I do the same as JR SPEY and it works great. Since nail knots rely on friction for hold I'd be a little more leary of braid, but have never tried it. I use 10# copolymer and 2 different knots, both coated afterward. Never had a failure that way.

Carl
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-22-2008, 08:47 PM
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Welded Loops

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Originally Posted by JR SPEY View Post
Those are two good methods. Others are to fuse it using the methods discussed in another thread currently running on Speyclave. ...
Here is the link to the most recent thread discussing creating welded loops:
http://speypages.com/speyclave/showt...highlight=loop

Give it a look, it works exceptionally well and is incredibly easy. There is now a shop offering a kit, but it doesn't take much and the tools/materials are pretty easy to find.

Rick
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-22-2008, 09:41 PM
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Red face The Super Glue Served Loop

This is how I make integral loops in fly lines and separate sink-tips. This doesn't have the factory-finished slickness of a welded loop, but it's stronger and probably more compact.

Cut 12-15 inches of 15-20 lb. mono or backing line. Tie it into a loop with a triple surgeon's knot. Twist a small part of this loop into a hitch loop, or wrap one strand of this stripping loop around the end of your shooting head, line, or sink-tip, about 1/4" from the end. Put a tool like a pliers handle in the other end of the stripping loop, to spare your hand, and yank. The fly line coating will be instantly stripped off. Repeat until you have the bare core as long as you want it. (3/4-1" is enough for a strong loop.)

Fold the end over into whatever size loop you want. With a flytying bobbin and medium-size tying thread, such as 3/0 monocord, wrap the thread around the beginning of the bare core, nearest the loop. Keeping the line loop in place between the fingers of both hands, swing the bobbin around the axis of the two joined sections, working the wraps toward the other end, with 10-12 wraps. Secure the tying thread at the end of the wrapped section with hitch knots.

Run a thin bead of super glue along the two joined sections (one bare core, the other still inside its plastic coating). After the glue is dried, in 10-15 minutes, pick up the loop again, with your fingers close together. Whirl the bobbin around the joined cores again, this time making contiguous wraps (you sort of nudge your grip sideways). (This is called, in old terminology, a "served" loop or splice.) When you've wrapped up to the beginning of the loop, finish off with the sort of half-hitches you use to finish a newly tied fly, or use a pull-through loop, like finishing off a wrapped guide on a rod blank. Coat the joined section with a flexible glue or cement. I use six coats of clear nail hardener. (Grit your manly teeth and go find it in any cosmetics display.)

Last edited by Nooksack Mac; 11-22-2008 at 09:43 PM. Reason: clarity
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