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Shrink Tubing Question

5K views 24 replies 13 participants last post by  K.W.Boozer 
G
#1 ·
I need to order some shrink tubing for building loops in T-14. I read that 1/16" diameter before being shrunk is the correct size to use in a 2:1 ratio shrinking material. You guys agree? Also the lowest shrinking temperature I have been able to find in tubing is 90 degrees celsius. Will this work ok? If not do you know where I can get some shrink material in a lower shrinking temperature?

Thanks in advance!
 
#2 · (Edited)
Uggg

T-14 has been a thorn in my side and welding temperatures are problematic. I have been able to weld loops in most other materials. T-14 is covered in PVC which needs to be heated up a little more than polyurethane while at the same time it has a mono core which if heated too high or too long transfers heat past your joint and melts the core causing a failed weld.

This can be insidious. I've welded a few loops in T-14 that looked good but failed when I tested them. This has never cost me a fish, but it could have had I not tested my loops.

So how to do it?

I've to go back and re-read Al Burh's book on splicing lines and especially the last 2-4 pages (in his new version!) where he lays out the exact temperatures for welding PVC over a mono core. Maybe some here could post that small piece of info?

I think Al suggests a higher ratio shrink tube like 3:1 or 4:1 for PVC welding. Look for polyoelifin (sp?) it feels rubbery and stretches a little and make sure it does not have an adhesive inner coating!

I'm also in the process of buying a variable temperatrure heat gun and a digital infra-red beam thermometer. Until I get those 2 tools I'm going to use braided loops on my T-14 or use the Airflow CCT which seems to be coated with polyurethane which welds at a lower temperature.
 
#3 ·
Hey Kory,
I've been using electrical shrink tubing from the hardware store (ultra cheap !) and not had any issues with it failing.
I fold back the sinking line to the size of loop I want, then use some masking tape (contractor blue kind) to hold it in place. Then I take some zap a gap to the tag end and the standing part of the sinking line, thus fusing the two together. Then to finish it off (make it look pretty :hihi: ) I use some shrink tubing. It's quick and easy, and I've not had one fail. Just make sure the tag end is not too long or that part before the loop could be pretty stiff. I usually make the tag end no more than 2 cm.

-Mike
 
#5 · (Edited)
Not sure:confused:
The tubing I've used is a lot thinner in diameter than the stuff Cortland provides in their loop connection kits, so I've found that it shrinks quite quickly with the use of a Bic lighter :rolleyes: . It normally will shrink around the T 14 before the T 14 bends and sags --> BAD, don't do that ( from trial and error )!
I got my shrink tubing from the local hardware store, in the electrical section. I picked up various sizes to accomodate Flylines, T 14, factory tips etc...
 
#6 ·
Kory
I agree with Gunnar--I have made all my loop connections--since my striper days back east in the 60;s--loop back the line and tie two nail knots about a 1/4" apart--coat with adhesive or shrink tube--I bye mine at the hardware store in the electrical aisle--it is a 2:1 shrink and the bic lighter does the trick--just wave it back and forth about two inches below the connection--it helps to put the loop over something so you can hold the line taught.
Mac
 
#9 ·
T-14

and other mono core lines. Just use a long enough piece of shrink tubing so that you have at least one inch at each end that you don't heat. This is to protect the bare line from accidental burn through. Clear tubing is a must. Otherwise you are only guessing when enough is enough. I found one of those cheap butane pencil torches to work well.
 
#11 ·
Great thread.
Bought Als book ages ago but been strugling to find tube.
Just checked out the cableorganize site and there is a kit for $19.
Whats the most popular sizes we need to make loops on lines and tips.

Anybody out there that could post some pics showing us other guys hows it done.
I'm sure everyone would appreciate it.
Thanks Speyladdie.
 
#12 ·
tubing sizes

1/8, 3/16, 7/32 diameters should do the trick. Al Buhr has pretty comprehensive instructions on doing this in his book. He also shows how to do this in his classes on building fly lines. I have reservations about putting too much info/pics and such out here without getting Al's permission first.
 
#14 ·
I use shrink tubing from a local store (Princess Auto) as a "cover" for my nail knots and braided loop connections - black/flexible and so far never had a failure with T-14 or other tips/loops.

I simply dunk the loop with the tube in rapidly boiling water for a few seconds and it's done.

Hope that helps.

Will
 
#15 ·
I was a plumber and HVAC Tech. for some 19 years and did quite a bit of plastic pipe welding with these handy little tools that is about a 1/4 inch dia tip that put out forced heat similar to a heat gun. These would probably work rather well but it may be bit expensive piece of equipment and the skills to use it with.You may find a local plumbers and pipe fitters Union hall and ask about them they can usually demostrate it use and see if it would work which I think they will.
 
#16 ·
3/64 Claear Polylefin tubing

I have been working with 3/64 Clear Polyolefin tubing welding both T-8 and T-14.
You have to have very controlled heat source to get it right.
I have been using a calibrated digital Thermometer and working within temp just under 200 ft..
Note the temperature at the height that you welding from the heat source is very critical.
The boiling point of most the coating is just a matter of 10 to 20 degrees above the melting point.
You can adjust how much heat is applied by simple moving the material that you are welding up and down.
T-8 is very sensitive to heat it only takes s second and the core is gone.
I hope this helps
 
#24 ·
Yes, if you plan on leaving the shrink tubing on you can use the type with adhesive. But if you have actually welded the line together then the shrink tubing is superfluous and is going to cause the line to crack at the point where the shrink tube ends as it is stiff enough to cause a hinge point against the much softer line coating.

Regards,
 
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