Hand Tied Leaders? - Spey Pages
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 12:22 PM Thread Starter
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Hand Tied Leaders?

simple questions
is there a market for hand tied leaders?

If you'd buy hand tied leaders how much would you pay for one?

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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 12:46 PM
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Are you talking about hand woven furled leaders?

I think they are classic. I like them personally.


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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 01:18 PM Thread Starter
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Are you talking about hand woven furled leaders?

I think they are classic. I like them personally.


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No I mean hand tied spey leaders with Maxima and blood knots. properly tapered, no short cuts.

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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 01:22 PM
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I've used the hand tied leaders from W.W. Doak's in Doaktown, NB for years. I think they charge $5.95 CND for them. Last time I checked only up to 12' though.

The late Gary Selig made the best spey leaders, but obviously no longer available.

Personally, I like the proper hand tied Maxima tapered leaders.
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 02:50 PM
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Does anyone have a picture of those?

I assume that would be a leader with multiple lb strengths tied with blood knots and a perfection loop in one end and a wicked fly the other.

Kindly enlighten me if I have missed something.

Thank you.

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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 03:15 PM
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I've used hand tied Maxima leaders for surface/near surface fishing for many many years.
Usually 15' long tied to a formula of 65% strength, 15% taper, 25 % tippet.
For sinking flies I use a 40" 15 lb Maxima no taper leader.
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 03:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mango man View Post
Does anyone have a picture of those?

I assume that would be a leader with multiple lb strengths tied with blood knots and a perfection loop in one end and a wicked fly the other.

Kindly enlighten me if I have missed something.

Thank you.

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No, haven't missed anything, that's exactly what they are. Doak's does it with
no tag ends on the blood knot and some sort of coat on the knot so they're relatively smooth through the guides--at least as smooth as they can be.
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 03:49 PM
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Jerry Doak (W W Doak) will tie you a 15 foot leader like the ones SalmonCane is talking about. I buy them one size larger tippett than I need then tie on about 4 feet tippett. Works great. He has a way of tying the knots so they are very smooth. They're not on his website but he will tie them.

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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 03:54 PM
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I have a Rio AFS 8 WT.

Full float
Intermediate + float
Full intermediate
Full sinking

Can someone suggest how long should my leader be?

I will be fishing for salmon in a slow moving slough water.

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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 03:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdcross View Post
I've used hand tied Maxima leaders for surface/near surface fishing for many many years.

Usually 15' long tied to a formula of 65% strength, 15% taper, 25 % tippet.

For sinking flies I use a 40" 15 lb Maxima no taper leader.
Jim,

Could you please tell me how much the pound strength should be if the Tippett should be at least 15 lbs for a coho in saltwater?

Thanks


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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 04:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mango man View Post
I have a Rio AFS 8 WT.

Full float
Intermediate + float
Full intermediate
Full sinking

Can someone suggest how long should my leader be?

I will be fishing for salmon in a slow moving slough water.

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I go by the length of rod I'm using:

Full float - from 1 rod length to 1.5 rod lengths
Intermediate + float - from 3/4 rod length to 1 rod length
Full intermediate - 3/4 to 1/2 rod length
Full sinking - no more than 3 to 4 feet

I'm a big fan of those old AFS heads, I have a bunch of them and use them often ... brilliant lines


Mike

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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 05:03 PM
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I know many east coast salmon anglers that prefer to buy hand tied leaders rather than the tapered leaders.
They will replace a tippet section but as far as the leader goes, they rather not get into buying all the different diameters of mono.


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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 05:15 PM
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I go by the length of rod I'm using:



Full float - from 1 rod length to 1.5 rod lengths

Intermediate + float - from 3/4 rod length to 1 rod length

Full intermediate - 3/4 to 1/2 rod length

Full sinking - no more than 3 to 4 feet



I'm a big fan of those old AFS heads, I have a bunch of them and use them often ... brilliant lines





Mike
That's very informative. Thank you great lakes flyer!!

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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 05:20 PM
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Been rolling my own since the 1970's. Over the years I've seen a variety of recipes and equations but I just sit there with several spools of Maxima and simply assemble what looks good to me. Something like 40, 30, 20, 15, 12, 10, and maybe down to 8 lb with the Spey rods. Sometimes I leave droppers and fish multiple flies. To lazy to sit there with a calculator and tape measure just to get a fly in the water. Normally carry a spare in my wallet for that rare instance where I might hang the whole unit up in a tree.

Only had that happen once when I was fishing a daisy chain of 3 flies. Put it all together and the whole mess got entangled in some dead limbs tight to the bank on the first cast. A bit miffed when I had to leave 3 flies up there that had never been wet. Had it been a live tree, I would have scrambled up and maybe whittled off a limb or two. Being dead and overhanging the water, I didn't want to risk a 20 ft fall into the run. The flies were up there for years until wildfire a couple years back took out the tree.

Years back a tech rep I encountered on the river gifted me multiple spools of some ultra thin material. I lost about 5 fish to hard hits that day and examinations and tests in camp revealed my knots were slipping. Nice curly cues on the end when I reeled things in. I normally put about 5 turns on each tag, wet the knot, snug things up, and trim the tags. With the thinner material, it took about 7 turns for the knots to hold, and I had issues getting the turns to stack neatly. Went back to my Maxima and the skinny stuff landed in the dumpster the next morning.

Last edited by OkieDokie; 08-17-2019 at 05:22 PM. Reason: spelling
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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 05:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OkieDokie View Post
Been rolling my own since the 1970's. Over the years I've seen a variety of recipes and equations but I just sit there with several spools of Maxima and simply assemble what looks good to me. Something like 40, 30, 20, 15, 12, 10, and maybe down to 8 lb with the Spey rods. Sometimes I leave droppers and fish multiple flies. To lazy to sit there with a calculator and tape measure just to get a fly in the water. Normally carry a spare in my wallet for that rare instance where I might hang the whole unit up in a tree.

Only had that happen once when I was fishing a daisy chain of 3 flies. Put it all together and the whole mess got entangled in some dead limbs tight to the bank on the first cast. A bit miffed when I had to leave 3 flies up there that had never been wet. Had it been a live tree, I would have scrambled up and maybe whittled off a limb or two. Being dead and overhanging the water, I didn't want to risk a 20 ft fall into the run. The flies were up there for years until wildfire a couple years back took out the tree.

Years back a tech rep I encountered on the river gifted me multiple spools of some ultra thin material. I lost about 5 fish to hard hits that day and examinations and tests in camp revealed my knots were slipping. Nice curly cues on the end when I reeled things in. I normally put about 5 turns on each tag, wet the knot, snug things up, and trim the tags. With the thinner material, it took about 7 turns for the knots to hold, and I had issues getting the turns to stack neatly. Went back to my Maxima and the skinny stuff landed in the dumpster the next morning.
It sucks when it breaks. I double the thinner line and tie a surgeons knot. Just before the fly.

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