Rock Treads a boat-friendly alternative to normal studs/cleats? - Spey Pages
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-10-2019, 10:51 PM Thread Starter
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Rock Treads a boat-friendly alternative to normal studs/cleats?

Hi,

can anyone comment on Rock Treads? ( https://www.rocktreads.com )

I need to get some studs on my bootfoot waders and am wondering whether these may be a more boat-friendly option...
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-11-2019, 02:03 AM
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I have rock treads and think they’re great. I imagine they’ll still cause wear to the floor of a boat but probably less so than typical studs.
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-11-2019, 02:33 AM
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I don't have Rock Treads, I do have some of the Patagonia aluminum bar boots. They work. They are less destructive than studs. They will still make a mess of a fly line.

If I may ask, as I understand it...installation of these involves drilling entirely through the boot. How do you plan to make that work with boot-foot waders? Lots of aqua-seal?
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-11-2019, 02:35 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by troutless View Post
If I may ask, as I understand it...installation of these involves drilling entirely through the boot. How do you plan to make that work with boot-foot waders? Lots of aqua-seal?
True, I did not realize that Back to cleats it is..
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-11-2019, 10:52 AM
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True, I did not realize that Back to cleats it is..
No need if you really want to try them. Those are just wannabe bars, but if you like them go for it.

They have a hole so you can easily install them on your boots just just throw out everything but the disk. I use brass tap sockets (you drill a short hole in the sole and then screw those into it) and screws that match. This make the bar/disks replaceable for the life of the boots. I install Al bars on my boots all the time and it is honestly almost the simplest thing you can do as a DIY on shoes. That way you buy the boots that are the best fit for your feet as the primary objective.

The Patagonia foot tractor bars are my favorite ones and find I find are the best for traction but are pricey...even by pataguicci standards. They are sold separately without the hardware, and Patagonia also sells less expensive kits for the straight bars. Same principle.

The foot tractor bars really do make you pay a price in terms of weight so I am mildly intrigued by the disks even though I’m fairly certain they would not be as good at gripping. Pm me for the exact part numbers if you are interested. You can order them on amazon super cheap if you can’t find the right stuff at the local hardware store. No glue required in this case, just a screw driver and a drill. I do use loctite on the the screws sometimes when installing the bars. My installations have been tested for many years and have seen multiple bar changes with no problems. No issues at all to date.

“Gravity is a harsh mistress!”, The Tick
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-11-2019, 04:58 PM
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I bought rubber mats at a restaurant supply store and cut them to size and put them on the floor of my drift boat. They protect the floor and they don't slide around too bad. They've been in the boat for years and haven't replaced, so they're durable. When I remove the mats to clean the boat, no cleat/stud marks.
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-12-2019, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by ptmstrbbq View Post
I bought rubber mats at a restaurant supply store and cut them to size and put them on the floor of my drift boat. They protect the floor and they don't slide around too bad. They've been in the boat for years and haven't replaced, so they're durable. When I remove the mats to clean the boat, no cleat/stud marks.
I did the same thing. Went to Home Depot and bought 1/4" textured rubber matting off the roll. Down side is that it was not UV resistant. 2 years later, totally disintegrated. Ive moved on to outdoor super thin carpet with a thin rubber backing. Same cheap price and seems to be holding up. For my boat it added about 40lbs. Down side is it takes forever to dry out. Dosnt really hold water but stays wet for days.
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-12-2019, 04:23 PM
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Apologies for the upset.

°

Science is not common sense. Much of it is devoted to a systematic documentation of what we do not know and understand.

Last edited by ENSO; 08-12-2019 at 07:23 PM.
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-12-2019, 06:25 PM
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I suggested nothing of the kind, only that he could quite easily install the disks from one side only should he desire. They probably should be vibram type outsoles, and it goes without saying they have to be thicker than the length of the taps used. Otherwise it’s easy.

The question was about damage to BOATS, not hiking. I would not use bars at all for any kind of extensive hiking, though many people on here have reported that they don’t mind. They are a pain enough on head-sized dry boulders for any distance.

We fished with a guy that does not allow spikes/studs of any kind in his boats. We poo-pooed this attitude but then we saw the chunk of flooring removed by a previous angler with spikes so we got off our high horses.

As for the rest of your comments I don’t know what the F you are talking about. It is axiomatic that larger bars will grip better, which is all I care about in hard wading conditions. They are FAR better than spikes except for a few special surfaces. To paraphrase Ron Swanson:

Dear Disks, you are aluminum that is lying about being bars. Be bars or be nothing. Yours, Ron Swanson. Also as far as I’m concerned not wading is lying about being fly fishing. Be wet or be nothing.

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Last edited by Botsari; 08-12-2019 at 07:31 PM.
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-12-2019, 07:36 PM
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I used the bars for years and have used the rock treads for about 1 year. I can't say I notice much difference in the performance of the two. In my experience, both of them are head/shoulders above felt.
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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-12-2019, 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by underachiever View Post
I used the bars for years and have used the rock treads for about 1 year. I can't say I notice much difference in the performance of the two. In my experience, both of them are head/shoulders above felt.
I’ll give them a try too then as I’d love to have something a little more walking friendly.

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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019, 07:26 PM
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Cleats

How do folks feel about STUDED felt?

🐞
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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 08:54 AM
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I have Rock Treads. IMHO, they work better than the Simms studs. Just make sure your Rock Treads kit comes with Loctite red, or else you Rock Treads won't stay on.

Do they work as well as felt? I don't think so, but they are the next best thing, and they are a lot less messy than felt.

Randy
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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 09:35 AM
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How do folks feel about STUDED felt?

🐞

I've used a pair of Weinbrenner felt boots for a few years now, and just use 3/8" or 1/2" (can't recall) sheet metal screws for cleats. Cost about $4 for 50 or so, and while they do wear out (or get lost--I don't use any Loctite or glue or anything) after several outings, replacing every few months isn't a big deal.

The combination felt and well-placed screws provides excellent traction, better than my Simms rubber soled w/cleats that I had prior, although considerably heavier.
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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-15-2019, 11:24 AM
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A different direction I realize but I have been using Korker boots for 10+ years now and have 3 different soles for them. The rubber one with no cleats or bars are great for hiking or in a boat. They call them sticky soles but here in the PNW not so much. I have the Triple Threat with the carbide spikes, great in the river, not good in a boat and the felt, good in a boat but I believe illegal in some places. The down side is it makes a sandy wet mess in my sling pack and takes a few minutes to change them over. Hope this helps.
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