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6 weight switch for steelhead?

25K views 56 replies 38 participants last post by  I Fall In A Lot 
#1 ·
Does anyone use a 6 weight switch rod for steelhead? Is it enough rod? Looking at a 11 foot 4 inch 6 weight switch rod. I will be fishing east great lake tribs. Thanks
 
#6 ·
Thanks guys. I am looking at a sage 11 foot 4 inch 6 weight for east tribs. I have a Scott L2h 11 foot 5 in 8 weight but its a little heavy to swing around all day for steelhead. I really don't swing for salmon or steelhead. I use the chuck and duck rig (bottom bouncing) for steelhead and salmon. Very effective method here on the east coast. I am looking at a switch rod around 5 1/2 ounces or a little more.
 
#18 ·
A story from personal experience, so take it FWIW. I fish the SR in Nov/Dec for steelhead using a 7 wt switch. I target steelhead exclusively. Last year a fresh King salmon slammed my intruder and took off for the Lake. I decided to do the ethical thing and play him to land and release, instead of breaking off. After a few runs, he was coming to shore,,,,, so I thought,,, takes off like a Maserati again and snap goes the rod. Did I do anything wrong? I didn't think so,,,, on the cork, etc,etc,etc,
That being said, I think a 6 wt switch is a great rod for steelhead in the NE. Moral of story is,,,even though you might not be targeting salmon, if there in the mix and decide to whack that fly,,, be prepared. Good Luck and have fun.
 
#9 ·
Its more a function of how far you need to cast, how big the fish get in your waters and how big of fly you want to cast. My Pieroway Renegade 10.5' 6wt works great for smaller rivers like the Ronde and the upper Salmon where the A run fish are usually between 5 and 8 pounds. I've also used my Meiser 11'7" #5 in the same waters and had no difficulty landing fish.
 
#11 ·
Not all 6wt's are built the same...fished a 12' 6" NRX 6wt the other day on the Chilliwack/Vedder River and landed a 13-15lbs steelhead. River was very low with little current. I also have a 11' 6" 6wt Rainshadow Immortal but won't fish it for steelhead as it will bottom out.

It also depends a lot on how you fight a fish - with the rod (i.e. with the butt or mid section), the type of reel you use (i.e. click and pawl vs. drag) and how you use the two together.

A 6wt spey should be fine for eastern tribs...I fished a 7/8wt NRX on the Saugeen and it was overkill.
 
#14 ·
I think it comes down to respect for the fish.

Can you quickly land and release the fish you are seeking with a 6 wt rod?
I have seen too many steelhead caught with a noodle of a rod not up to the task and by the time the fish is landed the lactic acid build up will surely kill the fish.

It’s not about using lighter and lighter rods.
It’s about preserving our steelhead
 
#16 ·
You know it’s kind of funny, there are times where a 6wt almost felt overkill for some fish and times where I was using an 8wt and got beat up!

But yes, for Great Lake tribs a 6wt has the juice (most rods) to stick it to a Steelhead. Someone mentioned above fighting the fish with the butt of the rod......very true. If you think there will be big fish in use some 15lb tippet and bend that rod like you wanted to break it! I’m always surprised how much stress these switch/Spey rods will take. Lots of reserve power in these longer rods
 
#19 ·
I think most that would need to ask the question "is a 6 weight enough rod for steelhead ?" should not be using a 6wt. yes, for those relative few anglers that really know how to fight and land even a fairly small steelhead. lots of folks i've observed (the majority) shouldn't be using a 6wt for a 4lb wild trout !
think about the fish you might hook, not just the typical fish in the river. besides, is there any HARM in landing a typical fish more quickly ?


just because you think you can safely do it, doesn't mean everyone else can !


.
 
#20 ·
Correct me if I’m wrong but ive read from more than one source that a single hand 10ft 7wt is considered the rod of choice for great lakes steelhead. Doesn’t a 6wt switch have more backbone than a single hand 7wt? If that’s the case shouldn’t the 6wt switch be plenty of rod? Or am I missing something? Not trying to create any controversy...genuinely curious. That being said I was talking to guides that guide the chagrin river in Ohio and they said they almost exclusively use 6wt switch rods for fish in March and April. And the same rods for cattaraugus creek in New York in the fall.
 
#22 ·
Yep, you hit the nail on the head. The only reason I go heavier is for bigger rivers. It helps in casting farther and if you have a bunch of water cruising at Mach 1, that 10lb steelhead fights like a 20lber in smaller rivers. But yes, you are correct. A 6wt switch has way more juice than a 7wt single handler.........no question man. I’ve been totally schooled by steelhead on a 7wt single handier, and brought Kings to hand in reasonable time with a 7wt Spey.......no question about it
 
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#21 ·
It's all about survival of the fish that are caught and released - will they survive after a long, drawn-out fight? I only fish C&R, and in all my fishing that rule is No.1, be it steelhead or trout. When I am fishing for steelhead, the minimum weight rod for summer would be a 7 wt. single hander, and a 9 wt. for late fall and winter fish. Spey rods that are a bit more stout may go one weight lighter, though I personally wouldn't. Like it has been stated earlier, it's all about respect - respect for the fish, and respect for yourself for being a good steward.:)
 
#26 ·
Glass just bends more without locking up. It’s also why glass rods are slower and more full flexing than graphite. Just the nature of the fiber. Might be a slight disadvantage for pure casting but you can pull way harder on a glass rod without breaking it than you can with graphite. Many big game salt rods are a glass blend for that reason.
 
#28 ·
Some random thoughts, hopefully on target to the original post--first, line weight really has little to do with landing a fish. So the discussion of 6 wt versus anything else is related only to the rod. I had an estimated 12 pound fish on the line on the Muskegon in SW Michigan with a 7 wt softer action rod and I couldn't lift the fish to the surface to net it. With a much faster action 7 wt a similar fish would not have been a problem. I'm paranoid C&R, so I want a stiff action rod to help me get the fish in quickly and release it as fresh as I can. I've fished a 12'9" 5 wt rod with plenty of backbone to release the fish alive.

Second, I tried to learn to spey cast with a switch rod and was about to chuck the whole two-hand business until someone told me grow up and get a longer rod. My casting improved almost immediately. Since you can't catch a fish unless you can cast to where they are from where you are, it seems somewhat strange to limit oneself by fishing shorter rods. I do have two shorter rods for smaller rivers and ones with over-hanging limbs, but I really prefer longer rods for the sake of casting ease.
 
#29 · (Edited)
I agree there is no golden rule as to 6wt vs 7wt. Depends on a lot: the specific rod characteristics, the average size of fish in your system as well as how you fight fish. Personally, I just bought a Meiser 11068CX and caught my first Steelie, a 9-10 lbs Hen. The rod was perfect, not too stiff, with enough backbone to land her quickly.

When I was ordering, I originally wanted a 11057CX. But Bob strongly suggested the 678 for the purpose I intended… He was right! He knows his rods…

Personally, I would err on the side of slightly stiffer, rather than softer… In the interest of fighting the fish...
 
#35 ·
6 wts for light summer steelhead only fish less that 10 lbs

kelts, do not target fish that aren't in their prime.

10 minutes is an extremely long time to fight a steelhead i think steelhead fishermen need to learn a thing or two from the bassmasters when it comes to fighting fish. when a steelhead isn't running you should be pulling against it hard, very hard.
 
#37 ·
I landed to hand a 12 lb steelhead on a 4 wt 2-hander once. Took a little longer to get in -- not my first preference. The water was deep and it was cold (~6C) and hooked with a dry fly so no harm. Or so I would like to think.

A 6 wt 2-hander with some backbone in the lower rod should be able to kill a bright steelhead just about anywhere.

Though to tell you the truth I have not fished a slinkie rig on a fly rod since 1994 and have never done it on a 2-hander. Really cannot advize the OP. Any bottom bouncing weight chuckers want to come forth and advize? :)
 
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