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More Beginner Questions

5K views 23 replies 9 participants last post by  kush 
#1 ·
Thank you for all the help with my last question. This may be the only spey school that I can attend, because there are none close to here. First question, what does a two line designation on a spey rod mean? Seconed question, if I tape my rod do I use electrical or masking tape? In the Derek Brown video it looks like he is using masking tape. Again thanks for any help.
 
#2 ·
Use electrical tape, not masking tape.

The 2 line designations mean that if you are an average to good caster, use a line that has both numbers in it (i.e. an 8/9 rod would use an 8/9/10 RIO Windcutter, an 8/9 RIO MidSpey, an 8/9 Delata Spey, and 8/9 Long Delta Spey). If a person is a powerful caster that really winds up and loads the rod, he would use a line that begins one size lower than the 2 on the rod (i.e. on the same 8/9 rod, he would use a 7/8/9 Windcutter, a 7/8 MidSpey, a 7/8 Delta Spey, or 7/8 Long Delta Spey).

Since you are new to spey casting, you should use a line that has both rod numbers in it (i.e. for an 8/9 rod, you should use the 8/9/10 Windcutter, 8/9 MidSpey, etc.) if it is a moderately stiff (think medium-action) rod.
 
#3 ·
line weight

I was interested in what has been said about the Rio Windcutter
Lines. I am also a beginner and I'm wondering if I have the correct line? I bought a B&W 13' Powerlite with a rating of 8-10 DT. I have been sold a Windcutter WF9/10/11F. I have been wondering if it's too heavy....any thoughts?

Cheers.
 
#4 ·
Hey Hairofthedog...

For the rod you list, looking on Simon's line chart he recommends the 8/9/10 WC for the newer caster or a person that likes to feel more rod load.
I have great faith in Simon's chart and think it is a very good place for the new caster to start looking when trying to decide which line. If you are interested in another brand you can always cross reference the info.

Simon and Rio deserve a BIG thank you from spey casters everywhere for suppling this info. Take care, MJC


http://www.rioproducts.com/pages/speyrecs.asp
 
#7 ·
Put in loops

Ray, it is easy to put in loops in your line, then you have more options. According to RIO specs tiip one and tip two are both 15 feet long. So you would cut your line at 15 feet and at thirty feet and place two loops at each cut ( I use braided loops). Join them and you have the original line. Remove tip one and two and put on a sink tip and you are ready for deeper fishing. With tip two removed, you have a Skagit style head.
 
#8 ·
line weight

Thanks again to everyone for responding.

Today I decided to get in touch direct with B&W. They have replied by telling me that the Rio Windcutter I mentioned is entirely unsuitable for the 13' Powerlite. The reason they state is that they feel the Rio WF line is for a faster rod with a tip action and that my rod has more of a through action. They advised a #10 DT. Fortunately I have one :D
 
#11 ·
Frankly, what B&W told you about the RIO Windcutter only being suitable for fast, tip-action rods is pure BS. A rod of any action from stiff, powerful, fast recovery to soft, low power, slow recovery can cast a spey line of any belly length! You must make sure you are not overloading or underloading the rod is all. You now more need to use a DT 10 on your rod than a person can only use a DT 6 on a 6 wt single-hand rod.

For slower rods like the B&W you have use the 9/10/11 Windcutter as a maximum size, and keep in mind that it is going to overload the rod a bit just like it does on the Sage 9140-4. For a new caster, the 8/9/10 Windcutter is a far better choice on your B&W. For an experience caster, the 7/8/9 Windcutter would probably be best.

If you want to use a bit longer belly, the 8/9 MidSpey or Long Delta would work fine. If you want to use a long-belly line, the GS 7/8 could be cast; but it will overload the rod a bit; but you could easily use the 7/8 XLT on your rod.
 
#12 ·
confusion

Durrrr, Whilst trying to gain clarification I find myslef even more confused because there are so many differing and strongly contrasting opinions......

I find it hard to dismiss B&W's opinion as 'BS', they surely must only have their customer's interests at heart, and surely they must know what lines are best for their own rods? They haven't tried to promote any particular make of line that would make one suspect that they have a contract with the manufacturer.

I guess that I will have to go with my own instincts here, tempered by the variety of advice I've been given.:whoa:

This is all adding to my experience and is welcomed.
 
#13 ·
World view

makes a big difference in what we think is reasonable. If you use the search function to look at the debate between short and long line spey casting, you will see what I mean. B&W come from the double taper world view, just remember that shorter heads work too, sometimes better, as when there is a need for stripping in. The 9/10/11 is too heavy uncut. With tip two removed and a 150 graing tip installed the 9/10/11 should come in a little over 500 grains and very close to the uncut 7/8/9 WC at 525 grains. Try out your DT 10 and then modify your 9/10/11 WC and try it with tip two removed and see what works best for you.
 
#14 ·
Like Ted pointed out, the DT 10 is the line that B&W most likely use as their target when they designed the rod, nothing wrong with that. However, this doesn't mean that a short-belly line like the Windcutter will not work "properly" on the rod.

That is why I included the 6 wt single-hand rod example. We all know that a single-hand rod that was designed to cast a DT 6 can also cast a WF line or a ST line just as well as the DT. Same with your B&W rod. Just because it was designed by B&W to cast a DT 10 doesn't mean it will not cast a short-belly, a mid-belly, or a long-belly WF spey line as well as the DT. For that matter, it would cast a spey shooting head line like the Loop Adapted, RIO Scandanavian, or SA Skagit head too, just like the single-hand 6 wt will cast WF and ST lines as well as the DT 6 it was designed to cast.

This is why I said what they told you about your rod not being able to cast a short-belly line very well was BS.
 
#15 ·
here

take your DT line out and fish it,,take a felt tip marker,,then after allowing yourself some time casting,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,mark the line with the marker,where it casts `sweetly',,this is YOUR windcutter,,then cut,loop the line to whatever small diameter line you'd like to tell your freinds you're using,,and go have fun,,,that's what i'd recomend,,,but,,i don't really like a WC,,haven't found a use for them,,just too short in the nonsegmented variety,,,and the `skagit style' ,,i guess that's what i'm doing with leadcore attached to the front of the line;;;it works!,,the windycutters are just short belly sections connected to small diameter running lines bye the factory to satisfy the needs of people who expect a magic power will be handed to them for mere money,,no,,GO FORTH,,SMILE,,,AND ENJOY ONESELF,,,whip what you have,,,,you'll see what the rod can handle,,,;)
 
#17 ·
Ray, if you're using braided loops, try the Roman Moser minicons in salmon size. I had great difficulty fitting the ordinary loops supplied with a line recently, and they looked rather flimsy too. The larger Moser ones went on with no problem; they also have a double wall, which makes them a bit sturdier. I think some people may also give them a coat of Aquasure to stiffen them up and prevent hinging, BTW.

Otherwise there are some clever people on this board who can tell you how to make a loop from the core of the line.
 
#22 ·
Cortland offers braided nylon in 20#, 30#, and 50#. Any dealer who carries Cortland should either have it or be able to get it for you. On large lines (#10-#12) I use 50#, and on smaller (#7-#9) lines I use 30#.

Making a loop is very easy. There are two basic methods most use.

The first one simply places the legs of the braid on each side of the cut line forming a loop of about 1/2" to 5/8". You then use nail knots make with 10# or 12# leader material to hold the loop to the line. Use 2 or 3 nail knots to make it secure. Then coat the loop and the nail knots with Aquaseal to stiffin the loop to prevent hinging and to make the nail knots slide through the rod guides without hanging up.

The second method has the line coating stripped from the line for about 4". The end of the line core is then stiffened with a drop of super glue or head cement to facilitate putting it inside of the braid. Slinky the line core up the braid until the braid is starting to go up on to the line coating at the coating/core junction (it helps if the braid end is frayed to allow the frayed end to go over the line coating). You then form a loop of 1/2" or 5/8" in the braided mono/line core combination and nail knot the end to the fly line. Again use 2 oe 3 nail knots to make it secure and coat the whole thing with Aquaseal to prevent hinging of the line hanging up.

You can cover the ends of the loop with heavy tying thread (use something like Danville's Flat Waxed Nylon) or nylon or rayon floss to smooth it before you coat it with the Aquaseal.
 
#24 ·
The best loops I have found are Kevlar loops commonly available at fly shops. They fit easily over thick tapers and are tough - they are kevlar! I usually slide it on, whip some thread over the junction where the fly line butts up against the loop (this stiffens that joint), then whip thread over the frayed end of the loop. I then cover the whole thing in Flexamant (Aquaseal would work as well).

I will usually get 2-3 seasons with a sinktip joint and I never have to replace the floating tip loop. I highly recommend them and the only time I don't use them is over thin smooth material like T-14, I use nylon loops.
 
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